Home / Women / Skirts / #5486 Skirt with a zip-up gusset
Difficulty: ***
You will need: natural or mixed fabrics, fusing, 1 zipper, 4 zipper for gussets, 4 studs, 2 clasps.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting :
Fabric:
1. Back panel - 2 details
2. Front panel - 2 details
3. Front yoke - 2 details
4. Front panel waistband - 4 details
5. Back yoke - 1 detail
6. Back panel waistband - 2 details
7. Gusset - 4 details
8. Flap - 4 details
9. Pocket - 2 details
10. Belt loop - 8 details
11. Flap half-belt - 2 details
12. Pocket half-belt - 2 details
Fusing: front panel waistband, back panel waistband, belt loop, flap.
Instructions:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front panel waistband, back panel waistband, belt loop, flap.
2. Stitch waistband to front yoke. Serge the seam and press it towards waistband. Stitch the yoke to front panel. Serge the seams press it towards yoke. Topstitch at 0.5 cm (3/16") from joining seam. Serge front panel. Stitch front panel middle seam between yoke and zipper mark. Press front panel middle seam apart, pressing slits. Stitch the zipper to upper slit allowance. Stitch the zipper to lower slit allowance. Press garment hem into wrong side and topstitch it.
3. Lay flap details right sides together and overstitch them. Cut flap corner allowances and turn them right side our. Press ready flap. Serge flap's upper edge.
4. Serge patch pocket upper edge. Press pocket upper edge and topstitch. Serge patch pocket outer contour and press allowance according to pattern.
5. Do the same for pocket/flap half-belts. Fold half-belt front the center, wrong side out. Overstitch the half-belt along two edges, leaving one short edge for turning out. Turn the half-belt right side out and press. Topstitch along half-belt contour at 0.2 cm (1/16") from edge. Serge half-belt raw edge. Set the clasp on half-belt, torn half-belt's end into wrong side (making a loop) and topstitch. Mark half-belt places on flap and on pocket. Stitch half-belt, turn out and topstitch at 0.5 cm from joining seam.
6. Mark pocket and flap places. Topstitch the pocket on front panel at 0.5 cm from pocket edge.
7. Serge the gusset along the contour. Press the hem under and topstitch it on the gusset on wrong side. Tack the gusset to front panel with zipper teeth visible. Topstitch along the zipper at 0.5 cm from seam joining the zipper. Remove tacking.
8. Stitch back panel waistband to yoke. Serge joining seam and press it towards waistband. Serge back panel middle/lower edge. Stitch back panel middle seam up to slit notch. Press back panel middle seam apart, pressing slits. Stitch the zipper to slit allowances. Stitch the yoke to back panel. Serge the seam and press it towards yoke. Topstitch at 0.5 cm from joining seam. Serge side edges of back panel. Press the hem into wrong side and topstitch. Process the gusset in the same way as front gusset.
9. Stitch side seams to slit notch together. Press side seams apart, pressing slits. Stitch the zipper to slit allowances. Process the gusset in the seam way as front gusset.
10. Stitch lower waistband side edges. Press waistband side seams apart, serge waistband lower edge. Fold belt loop details, overstitch them along the contour leaving upper edge free. Turn belt loop right side out, press it and topstitch along the contour. Stitch belt loops on garment upper edge.
11. Lay the waistband on skirt upper edge right sides together and overstitch. Topstitch overstitching on lower waistband at 0.2 cm from overstitching seam. Fold the waistband into wrong side and press skirt upper overstitch edge of garment. Fold lower waistband middle edges under and topstitch at 0.5 cm from zipper catching edges. Topstitch lower waistband sergeed edge on seam joining upper waistband. Make studs into belt loops and into skirt.
