Home / Women / Raincoats / #5046 Raincoat
Difficulty: ***
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
You will need: raincoat fabric with moss effect (velvety), lining fabric, fusible interfacing, 6 large buttons.
Cutting:
Raincoat fabric:
Front – 2 pieces
Back – 2 pieces
Collar – 2 pieces with fold
Collar Stand -2 pieces with fold
Yoke – 2 pieces
Sleeve – 2 pieces
Front Facing – 2 pieces
Pocket – 4 pieces
Sleeve Belts – 2 pieces
A stripe for Belt Loops 55 cm (22“) long and 3 cm (1-2/8“) wide, 1.5 cm (5/8”) wide when finished.
Lining:
Front – 2 pieces
Back – 2 pieces
Sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusible Interfacing:
Collar -1 pieces with fold
Collar Stand – 1 pieces with fold
Front Facing – 2 pieces
Pocket-2 pieces
Instructions:
1. Attach Yokes to Fronts and double-topstitch. Sew center back seam, topstitch it very close to seam at the left Back piece. Sew side and shoulder seams. Edgestitch shoulder seams at Front Yokes; edgestitch side seams onto Fronts.
2. Collar and Lapels. Sew Front Facings to Fronts and Lapels up to the notch. Clip seam allowances close to the seam. Attach Collar Stand pieces to each Collar piece correspondingly; topstitch each seam at 2 mm at both sides of each seam. Assemble the Collar: place Collar units face-to-face, pin and sew at the outer edge, slightly gathering the upper Collar. Turn, press.
Place Collar between Front and Front Facing at each side. Sew lower Collar into raincoat neckline; sew upper Collar into neckline of Front Facings. Clip seam allowances, press open. Turn Front Facings to the wrong side. Pin seam allowances and baste together to prevent Collar from rolling.
3.Turn hem allowances to the wrong side up to the Front Facings, press and stitch at 3 cm (1-2/8”). Topstitch raincoat along front, lapels and outer edge of collar at 2 mm (very close to seam) and 1 cm (3/8”).
4.Assemble Pockets: place 2 pocket pieces face-to-face, pin, sew around, leaving an open area to turn out. Clip allowances at corners, turn out the pocket, press edges. Topstitch each pocket Flap only (not the whole pocket). Place pockets onto Fronts according to markings, and stitch them onto Fronts. Fold the Flaps down and press.
5.Assemble belt loop unit: fold a stripe in half lengthwise and stitch along the raw edges. Turn out, press, edgestitch. Cut the unit into 6 equal pieces. Place Belt Loops onto side seams of Raincoat and onto Sleeves according to markings, sew them on.
6.Sew sleeve seams. Tuck under sleeves’ hemming allowance and stitch.
7.Sew Sleeves into armholes. Edgestitch the seams. Attach shoulder pads.
8.Assemble Front and Back lining pieces, leaving extended the edges of Back at shoulders/ neckline. Set lining sleeves into armholes. Sew lining to Front Facings, leaving open areas about 10 cm (4”) at the bottom.
At top, hand-sew lining to Front Facings and Collar Stand.
Each lining Sleeve place into raincoat Sleeve, tuck under hemming of lining sleeve and pin ONCE to hemming of raincoat sleeve. Important: through the open area at raincoat bottom put your hand between raincoat and lining, take the pinned area and pull outside. Now pin all the lining to raincoat at sleeve hem, attach all around. Return the sleeves back through the inside of raincoat. Tuck under lining at hem so that the lining is 1 cm (3/8”) shorter than the raincoat itself.
Sew to close the open areas of lining next to Front Facings. Attach Front Facings to raincoat hem.
Assemble Sleeve Belts: place face-to-face, pin, sew leaving an area for turning, with one end of each Sleeve Belt sewn cornerwise ==>. Clip seam allowances at corners, turn out the belts, press and topstitch.
10. Make 3 buttonholes into right Front. Make one buttonhole at top of left Front for the inside button. Make two buttonholes at each corner of Sleeve Belts. Sew on buttons corresponding to the buttonholes.