Home / Women / Raincoats / #5487 Raincoat with flying yoke
Difficulty: ***
You will need: fabric suitable for cloaks, lining, fusing.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting :
Fabric:
1. Center upper back part - 2 details
2. Side upper back part - 2 details
3. Inner collar - 1 detail
4. Outer collar - 1 detail
5. Side upper front part - 2 details
6. Center upper front part - 2 details
7. Front facing - 2 details
8. Yoke - 4 details
9. Belt - 1 detail
10. Upper sleeve - 2 details
11. Lower sleeve - 2 details
12. Center lower back part - 2 details
13. Side lower back part - 2 details
14. Side lower front part - 2 details
15. Center lower front part - 2 details
16. Big pocket bag - 2 details
17. Small pocket bag - 2 details
Lining:
1. Center back part - 2 details
2. Side back part - 2 details
3. Side front part - 2 details
4. Center front part - 2 details
5. Big pocket bag - 2 details
6. Upper sleeve - 2 details
7. Lower sleeve - 2 details
Fusing: front facing, center upper front part, center lower front part, vent segment, inner collar, reinforcement stripe.
Instructions:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front facing, center upper front part, center lower front part, vent segment, inner collar, reinforcement stripe.
2. Lay outer collar on inner one right side together and overstitch inner collar with outer one. Press the collar.
3. Stitch center upper front part to center lower front part. Press seams apart. Stitch side upper front part to side lower front part. Press seams apart.
4. Serge relieve edges between hem and waistline. Stitch them together and press front princess seams apart.
5. Mark pocket place at front part. Reinforce pocket entrance with reinforcement stripe. Check lower pocket place on front part. Cut pocket facings. Press pocket facings along the center right side out. Mark auxiliary line at pocket facings parallel to facing bend, for stitching it. Mark auxiliary line parallel to pocket entrance to stitch facing. Stitch facings to front part. Stop stitching at pocket parallel marking. Check if facings are stitched correctly (on wrong side, stitches must be parallel). Cut pocket entrance. Make diagonal notches at 1-1.5 cm (5/8") from pocket ends. Turn facings into wrong side through this hole, check facing ends. Reinforce pocket ends on wrong side with double reverse stitch along corner base. Lay the zipper under pocket entrance with its teeth visible. Stitch the zipper in and stitch pocket lining to facing allowance. Stitch pocket linings together and serge the seam.
6. Cut fabric valance. Mark upper false pocket on front part. Reinforce pocket entrance with reinforcement stripe. Process upper pocket in the same way as lower one. After the zipper is stitched in, stitch valance to facing allowances.
7. Serge front facing inner edge. Pin front facing and right side of front part, right sides together, and overstitch along marked line. (Stitch from front part side up to the notch that points where collar stitching ends.) Press garment hem into wrong side. Stitch front facing hems to front part strictly along marked hem line. Cut edging upper/lower corners seams. Turn edgings right side out. Serge edging overstitching allowance: at closure segment - on front facing, at lapel segment - on front part edging. Edgings and topstitch at 0.5 cm (3/16") from edging. Remove tacking.
8. Lay yokes right sides together and overstitch along outer contour, with shoulder/side/side edges and armhole edges free. Turn the yoke right side out and press it. Tack the yoke to front part. Topstitch the yoke on front part.
9. Stitch side upper back part to side lower back part, stitch center upper back part to center lower back part. Press joining seams apart.
10. Serge relieve edges between hem and waistline. Stitch back princess seams together and press them apart.
11. Serge vent edges. Stitch vent back edge, down to vent. Press lower vent edge at 1 cm (3/8"). Press back part middle seam and the vent towards back center. Topstitch middle back seam diagonally at vent top, catching vent allowance.
12. Serge side seams between hem and waistline. Stitch garment side/shoulder seams together. Press shoulder/side seams apart. Remove tacking.
13. Stitch sleeve elbow seam and lower/upper sleeve vent corners. Press elbow seam apart, make a notch and press the vent.
14. Stitch sleeve front seam and press it apart. Press sleeve hem under.
15. Stitch inner collar into garment neckline.
16. Stitch sleeves into armholes according to notches. Stitch shoulder pads in.
17. Make studs into sleeve vent, yoke and along edging.
18. Stitch together lining details and sew sleeves in. Serge lining seams between hem and waistline. Stitch the lining to inner edges of front facings and to outer collar. Press joining collar allowances apart and fix close to seams.
19. Fold lining sleeves under and stitch to garment sleeves hems, fold extra lining under and press. Turn the garment right side out. Pin lining side seams to garment side seam and cut neatly along vent edges, changing at 1 cm (3/8") towards middle seam. Stopping 1 cm before vent top, make 1-cm diagonal notches towards both sides. Fold slits in and pin them with vent edges. With one hand between the garment and the lining, pull pinned edges one by one right side out. Stitch edges together, fold the lining under. Check vent corners. At vent upper edge, fold lining corner under and sew it to vent allowance. Fold garment hem under and topstitch lining so that lining was 1 cm shorter than garment hem.
20. Press garment hem allowance into wrong side and sew by hand.
21. Fold the belt along the center wrong side out. Overstitch the belt along three edges leaving small hole to turn the belt right side out. Turn the belt right side out and press it. Topstitch along belt contour at 0.5 cm (3/16") from edge.
