Home / Women / Raincoats / #5310 Leather raincoat
Difficulty: ***
Recommended fabrics: artificial leather.
You will need: fusible interfacing; 8 studs; separating zipper; lining.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Fabric:
1. Center back part – 2 details
2. Side back part – 2 details
3. Front yoke - 2 details
4. Back yoke - 1 detail
5. Side front part – 2 details
6. Center front part – 2 details
7. Flap – 4 details
8. Front pocket flap - 4 details
9. Stand-up collar – 2 details
10. Front facing – 2 details
11. Upper sleeve – 2 details
12. Lower sleeve – 2 details
13. Pocket – 4 details
Lining:
1. Center back part – 2 details
2. Side back part – 2 details
3. Side front part – 2 details
4. Center front part – 2 details
5. Bag – 4 details
6. Upper sleeve – 2 details
7. Lower sleeve – 2 details
Fusible interfacing: front facing, center front part, front yoke, yoke side lower part, back yoke, back side lower part, front pocket flap, flap, stand-up collar, front part side armhole, back part side armhole; hem allowances: lower sleeve, upper sleeve, center back part, side back part.
Instructions:
1. Strengthen the front facing, center front part, front yoke, back yoke, stand-up collar, front part side armhole, back part side armhole, front pocket flap, flap; hem allowance of center back part, side back part, lower sleeve, upper sleeve, side of front part.
2. Overstitch inner collar with outer one (right sides together) on the collar fall side.
3. Fold flaps and under-flaps wrong sides together, then overstitch. Cut flap rounded corners allowance and turn them right side out. Topstithes along outer contours of flaps on 0.5 cm (3/16") from the edge.
4. Sew front and back princess seams.
5. Sew the flap to front yoke lower edge, between vertical notches. Sew the yoke to the front part. Topstitch along front part yoke on 0.5 cm distance.
6. Sew back center seam. Topstitch along front part yoke on 0.5 cm distance.
7. Sew the yoke to the back part. Topstitch along front part yoke on 0.5 cm distance.
8. Sew the bag to one-piece cut facing of the pocket, then sew lining and fabric pockets edges along the contour, with hole in the side seam, of about 5 cm (2") length, to turn out the pocket. Cut pocket rounded corner allowances and turn the pocket right side out.
9. Topstitch joining of front pocket and front part according to marking, then fold out and topstitch on 0.5 cm from topstitch seam. Topstitch the pocket on the front part according to marking along outer contour on 0.5 cm from the edge. Fix upper corners of pockets with double stitches.
10. Sew shoulder and side seams.
11. Sew inner stand-up collar to the neckline.
12. Fold front and back parts right sides together and equal edges, coinciding yokes, then measure edge lengths. Sew the zipper to edge. Fold edge under on the zipper area and press it by means of pressing cloth.
13. Sew outer stand-up collar to front facing.
14. Fold the front facing and front part, right sides together. Overstitch stand-up collar and edge ends according to marked line, from the front part. Sew front facing lower edges to the front part, in strict accordance to marked hem folding-under line. Cut edge upper and lower corners. Turn edges right side out, then fit seams. Topstitch along the edge on 0.5 cm distance.
15. Sew elbow sleeve seam. Sew front sleeve seam. Press sleeve hem.
16. Sew sleeves into the armholes accordingly to notches. Sew the shoulder pads and sleeve heads into.
17. Sew seams into lining, then sew sleeves into, with a hole in the sleeve front seam.
18. Sew lining to inner edges of front facings and outer stand-up. Press collar joining seam allowance apart, then fix near seams.
19. Sew lining to the cloak hem. Turn the cloak right side out through the hole in the sleeve. Sew the hole in the sleeve.
20. Work studs’ upper part into the flap, and the lower ones – on the center and side front parts, in accordance with marking. Work studs’ upper parts into the front flap and lower one – into the pocket, in accordance with marking.