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example - #5492 Anorak preview - #5492 Anorak

Difficulty: ***

You will need: fabric suitable for cloak; knitwear, fusing, separating zipper, 5 buttons, lining, zipper for pocket.

Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.

When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.

Cutting:

Fabric:

1. Inner collar - 1 detail
2. Outer collar - 1 collar
3. Cuff - 2 details
4. Sleeve - 2 details
5. Waistband stripe - 2 details
6. Pocket - 2 details
7. Pocket side part - 2 details
8. Front pocket flap - 4 details
9. Bust pocket flap - 2 details
10. Bust pocket - 1 detail
11. Front facing - 2 details
12. Left front part - 1 detail
13. Right front part - 1 detail
14. Front yoke - 2 details
15. Back part - 2 details

Knitwear:

1. Back waistband - 2 details
2. Front waistband - 2 details

Lining:

1. Upper pocket small pocket bag - 1 detail
2. Upper pocket large pocket bag - 1 detail
3. Front part - 2 details
4. Back part - 2 details
5. Sleeve - 2 details

Fusing: front facing, inner collar, reinforcement stripe, waistband stripe.

Instructions:

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front facing, inner collar, reinforcement stripe, waistband stripe.

2. Lay outer collar on inner one and overstitch along outer contour. Slash collar's corner and turn them out. Press the collar.

3. Cut fabric stripe for a loop. Fold the stripe along the center. Right side out, and coincide edges. Fold edges under and stitch at 0.1 cm (1/16") from upper folded edge. Fold the stripe in twice making triangle. Fix the triangle along the base. Topstitch the loop to bust pocket flap's lower edge.

4. Fold bust pocket flap details right sides together and stitch along outer contour. Turn the flap right side out through upper open edge. Edgestitch the Flap. Mark bust pocket place on upper front part. Serge patch pocket outer contour. Press patch pocket upper edge and topstitch at 0.5 cm (3/16") from upper edge. Press pocket edges according to pattern. Mark pocket place on front part and topstitch it fixing pocket corners. Sew the yoke to right front part inserting the flap. Serge joining seam, press it and topstitch at 0.5 cm.

5. Mark front pocket place at front parts. Process it by analogy to bust pocket flap. Serge front pocket side edge. Sew front pocket facing to pocket side/lower edges and serge them. Serge pocket upper edge, fold under and topstitch it. Lay the pocket on tacking, fold facing edge under and topstitch. Lay the flap to tacking and topstitch. Turn the flap right side out and topstitch at 0.5 cm.

6. Mark upper pocket place on left front part. Reinforce pocket entrance with reinforcement stripe. Correct pocket place and pocket entrance line. Cut pocket entrance. Make diagonal cuts at 1-1.5 cm (3/16") from pocket ends. Turn pocket allowance wrong side out through this hole. Correct pocket ends on wrong side. Lay the zipper under pocket entrance with its teeth visible. Stitch the zipper in and sew pocket lining to zipper allowance. Sew pocket lining and serge it.

7. Sew the yoke to left front part. Serge joining seam and press it. Topstitch.

8. Sew waistband stripe to front waistband. Press the seam and topstitch it. Sew the waistband to front parts.

9. Sew back middle edge and pres it apart. Sew back waistband to back part.

10. Lay front parts right sides together coinciding yokes, and measure edging lengths. Sew the zipper to edging. Fold edgings under at closure segment and press them.

11. Lay front facing on front part right sides together and overstitch along edging line (on front part side). Turn edgings right side out and press it.

12. Sew shoulder/side edges. Press shoulder/side seams apart.

13. Sew inner collar into neckline.

14. Sew sleeve edge and press it apart. Sew sleeves into armholes according to notches.

15. Sew lining details and sew sleeves in. Press lining allowance. Sew lining to outer collar and to front facing' inner edges, stop stitching at 1 cm (3/8") before edge ends. Press collar joining seam allowances apart and fix close to seams.

16. Sew the waistband to front facing lower edge. Overstitch waistband lower corners. Slash corners, turn right side out and press.

17. Sew cuff side edges together. Fold the cuff along the center, right side out.

18. Sew cuffs to sleeve hems and serge cuff upper edge together with sleeve and lining.

19. Topstitch along the zipper at 0.5 cm (3/16") distance. Mark buttonholes into front pocket flap and serge them. Sew buttons correspondingly.



Free sewing patterns (PDF) available for download

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