Home / Women / Maternity / #5603 Poncho
Difficulty: **
Recommended fabric: heavyweight woolen or blended fabrics for coats.
You will need: 6 buttons; lining; fusible interfacing, double-sided fusible tape.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Shell fabric:
1. Right Front - 1 piece
2. Left Front – 1 piece
3. Back - 1 piece
4. Side Front - 2 pieces
5. Side Back - 2 pieces
6. Pocket Welt – 2 pieces
7. Back Neck Facing - 2 pieces
8. Right Front Neck Facing - 2 pieces
9. Left Front Neck Facing – 2 pieces
10. Front Facing – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Right Front - 1 piece (with area of Front Facing excluded)
2. Back - 1 piece
3. Side Front - 2 pieces
4. Side Back - 2 pieces
5. Large Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
6. Small Pocket Bag - 2 pieces
Fusible Interfacing: Pocket Welt, Back Neck Facing, Right Front Neck Facing, Left Front Neck Facing, Front Facing.
Instructions:
1. Reinforce Pocket Welts and Neck Facings with fusible interfacing.
2. Fold each Pocket Welt lengthwise in half, face side inside, and stitch at short ends. Clip allowances in corners, turn out to the face side, press.
3. Mark Pockets placement at Fronts. Mark a line of future seam at each Pocket Welt, checking that the Welt will be consistent in width.
Place Pocket Welt wrong side on top of face side of Small Pocket Bag, so that the fold of Welt is directed down; align raw edges of Welt and Pocket Bag.
Apply Pocket Welt onto Front, matching marked lines (the Welt will be sandwiched between Front and Pocket Bag on top). Baste all layers at the marked line.
Stitch Welt and Pocket Bag to Front.
Place Large Pocket Bag on top of Front, face-to-face, line-on-line with previous seam of attaching the Welt; baste. Stitch Large Pocket Bag to Front at the distance 0,8-1 cm (5/16 – 3/8”) from the seam of Welt.
At the wrong side, check to make sure that seams of Pocket are parallel to each other.
Remove basting threads. Cut Pocket entrance between the seams. In corners (about 1-1,5 cm (3/8-5/8”) from each end of pocket entrance) cut fabric diagonally towards ends of seams. Turn Welt and Pocket Bags inside through the pocket opening; turn inside small triangles at the ends. Baste around the pocket opening and press.
At the wrong side of garment, bartack small triangles onto Pocket Bag. Align, pin and trim Pocket Bags. Stitch Pocket Bags together; serge allowances.
Baste Pocket Welt to the Front, press. Topstitch short ends of Pocket Welt onto Front. Remove all basting threads.
4. Sew vertical seam of left Front. Press allowances open. Sew vertical seam of right Front. Press allowances open. Sew shoulder/upper arm seams, joining Back and Fronts. Press allowances open.
5. Assemble lining similar to shell (p.4), leaving an opening for turning out in one shoulder seam of lining. Serge allowances and press the seams.
6. Place Front Facing onto Front face-to-face, pin or baste, stitch together at front edges. Note: you should stitch at the Front going from bottom towards neckline. Stitch bottom edge of Front Facing to the bottom hem of garment, exactly at the hemline (where the hem in finished garment is going to be). Clip allowances in bottom corners of Fronts. Under-stitch Front Facings (along front edge seams), stopping the under-stitching seam about 3 cm (1-3/16”) from neckline and from bottom hem.
7. Stitch shoulder edges of Back Neck Facing and left/right Front Neck Facings, forming two Neck Facings – outer and inner. Press allowances open. Place outer and inner Neck Facings together, face-to-face, and stitch together at the top edge and two short edges. Clip allowances in corners, turn out and press the Neck Facing. Place raw edge of outer Neck Facing into neckline of poncho; stitch Facing into the neckline. Stitch lining to the inner raw edges of Front Facings.
8. Place and stitch inner Neck Facing into the neckline of lining/Front Facings. Inside the garment, bartack together neckline allowances of both Neck Facings. Stitch lining to the bottom of garment. Lay double-sided fusible tape along the bottom of lining; press to fuse lining to shell at bottom of poncho.
9. Turn the poncho out through the opening in shoulder seam of lining. Hand-sew together edges of the opening.
10. Mark placement of buttonholes at the right Front. Make buttonholes. Sew buttons to the left Front accordingly.