Home / Women / Jackets / #5507 (XXXL) Jacket with rounded neckline
Difficulty: **
You will need: wool/semi-wool mixed with artificial yarns; fusing; 3 buttons; lining.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Fabric:
1. Center back part - 1 detail
2. Side back part - 2 details
3. Side front part - 2 details
4. Center front part - 2 details
5. Front facing - 2 details
6. Upper sleeve - 2 details
7. Lower sleeve - 2 details
8. Neckline facing - 1 detail
Lining:
1. Center back part - 1 detail
2. Side back part - 2 details
3. Side front part - 2 details
4. Center font part - 2 details
5. Pocket lining - 4 details
6. Upper sleeve part - 2 details
7. Lower sleeve part - 2 details
Fusing: front facing, back neckline facing, side front part, center front part, upper center back part including a segment of armhole, lower center back part, side back part's armhole, lower side back part, lower sleeve's lower part, upper sleeve's lower part.
Instructions:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front facing, back neckline facing, side front part, center front part, upper center back part including a segment of armhole, lower center back part, side back part's armhole, lower side back part, lower sleeve's lower part, upper sleeve's lower part.
2. Stitch back darts and press them towards back center. Stitch front relieve darts. Stitch back relieve darts.
3. Mark off-set welt. Press the welt along the center wrong side out. Overstitch welt's corners, cut extra fabric in corners and turn the off-set welt right side out. Press ready welt.
4. Apply the straighter to slit pocket entrance (front part). Mark off-set welt to stitch it to the garment, measuring the width. Lay the welt wrong side on one part of pocket lining's right side, with welt's ready edge downwards, coinciding edges and leaving lining edges at similar width. Lay off-set welt on front part and coincide markings. Stitch the welt to front part (welt is between front part and pocket lining). Fold seam that joins welt to lining out towards welt. Lining's another part: lay it on front part right sides together, lay-to-lay with seam joining welt. Stitch it at 0.8-1 cm (5/16" -3/8" ) from seam joining the welt. Check if welt and pocket lining are stitched correctly (stitches on wrong side must be parallel). Remove tacking. Cut pocket entrance. Make diagonal notches at 1-1.5 cm (3/8"-5/8") from pocket ends. Turn the welt and pocket lining wrong side out through this hole. Fix pocket ends with double reverse stitches on wrong side along corners' base. Stitch pocket lining and serge it. Tack off-set welt to front part and press it. Topstitch welt ends. Remove tacking.
5. Overstitch edgings with front facings. Turn upper/lower corners of edgings right side out.
6. Stitch back neckline facing to front facings and press front facing/edging shoulder seams apart.
7. Stitch shoulder/side seams of the garment. Press shoulder/side seams apart.
8. Overstitch the neckline with facing and front facing. Topstitch overstitching allowance on facing and front facing at 0.2 cm (1/16") from seam. Press the neckline.
9. Stitch elbow seam and press it apart.
10. Stitch sleeves' front seams and press them apart.
11. Stitch sleeves into armholes according to notches.
12. Stitch lining details leaving a hole in right sleeve. Press the lining.
13. Stitch shoulder pads in.
14. Stitch the lining to front facings and back neckline facing and to garment/sleeve hems coinciding lining seams with garment seams. Make 7 fixes above seams along garment hem.
15. Turn the jacket right side out through the hole in the seam. Stitch hole's edges together.
16. Make buttonholes into right edge, sew buttons on left one.