Home / Women / Jackets / #5512 (XXXL) Jacket with pleats
Difficulty: **
You will need: natural/mixed fabric, fusing, lining, 3 buttons, shoulder pads.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Fabric:
1. Upper front part - 2 details
2. Inner collar - 1 detail
3. Outer collar - 1 detail
4. Middle front part - 2 details
5. Side front part - 2 details
6. Back neckline facing - 1 detail
7. Side back part - 2 details
8. Middle back part - 2 details
9. Front facing - 2 details
10. Upper sleeve_1 - 2 details
11. Upper sleeve_2 - 2 details
12. Lower sleeve - 2 details
Lining:
1. Upper front part - 2 details
2. Middle front part - 2 details
3. Side front part - 2 details
4. Middle back part - 2 details
5. Side back part - 2 details
6. Upper sleeve - 2 details
7. Lower sleeve - 2 details
Fusing: front facing, inner collar, back neckline facing.
Instructions:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front facing, inner collar, back neckline facing.
2. Lay collar details together and overstitch them along the contour. Turn collar corners right side out. Press the collar.
3. Make a pleat along upper front part's lower edge at dart dividing level.
4. Stitch side front part to middle front part. Press joining seam apart. Stitch front lower part to upper part. Press joining seam apart.
5. Stitch back shoulder dart, press the darts towards back center. Stitch middle back edge and press apart. Stitch side back part to center back part. Press joining seam apart.
6. Stitch shoulder/side seams of the garment and press them apart.
7. Make a pleat along upper sleeve_1's lower edge; the pleat must be equal to length of upper sleeve_2's upper edge. Stitch details of upper sleeves 1 and 2. Stitch sleeve front seam and press it apart. Press sleeve hems under.
8. Pin front facing on front part right sides together and overstitch them along edging (at front part side up to the notch determining edge of collar stitching in). Stitch front facings' lower edges to center front part along marked hem line. Cut edging upper/lower corners. Topstitch edging overstitching as follows: topstitch allowance on front facing at closure segment and on front edging at lapels (stitching goes 2 cm (1/16") from the seam). Turn the edgings right side our and press it. Stitch shoulder edges of back neckline facing and front facing together, press seams apart.
9. Stitch inner collar into garment neckline. Stitch outer collar to back neckline facing and front facing.
10. Stitch sleeves into armholes according to notches.
11. Stitch lining details leaving a hole into sleeve right front seam, and stitch sleeves in. Press lining seams. Stitch lining to front facings' inner edges and outer collar's neckline edge. Press collar joining seams' allowances apart and fix close to seams.
12. Stitch lining sleeves to fabric sleeve hems and garment's hem. Fix the lining to jacket at waist level at relieve seam s with 1 cm stitch. Turn the jacket right side out through the hole in the sleeve. Stitch sleeve hole.
13. Make buttonholes, sew buttons.