Home / Women / Jackets / #5513 (XXXL) Jacket with cuffs
Difficulty: **
You will need: natural/mixed fabric suitable for costumes; fusing; lining; 4 buttons.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Fabric:
1. Center back part - 2 details
2. Side back part - 2 details
3. Inner collar - 1 detail
4. Outer collar - 1 detail
5. Side front part - 2 details
6. Center front part - 2 details
7. Front facing - 2 details
8. Off-set welt - 2 details
9. Upper sleeve - 2 details
10. Lower sleeve - 2 details
11. Lower sleeve facing - 2 details
12. Upper sleeve facing - 2 details
Lining:
1. Center back part - 2 details
2. Side back part - 2 details
3. Side front part - 2 details
4. Center front part - 2 details
5. Upper sleeve - 2 details
6. Lower sleeve - 2 details
7. Pocket lining - 4 details
Fusing: front facing, inner collar, upper sleeve facing, lower sleeve facing.
Instructions:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front facing, inner collar, upper sleeve facing, lower sleeve facing.
2. Lay collar details together and overstitch them along the contour. Turn collar corners right side out. Press the collar.
3. Stitch side front part to center front part. Press joining seam apart.
4. Stitch middle back edge and press it apart. Stitch side back part to center back part. Pres joining seam apart.
5. Press the off-set welt along the center wrong side out. Overstitch welt corners, cut extra fabric on corners ad turn the welt right side out. Press ready welt.
6. Mark off-set welt to stitch it to the garment, measuring the width. Lay the welt wrong side on one part of pocket lining's right side, with welt's ready edge downwards, coinciding edges and leaving lining edges at similar width. Lay off-set welt on front part and coincide markings. Stitch the welt to front part (welt is between front part and pocket lining). Fold seam that joins welt to lining out towards welt. Lining's another part: lay it on front part right sides together, lay-to-lay with seam joining welt. Stitch it at 0.8-1 cm from seam joining the welt. Check if welt and pocket lining are stitched correctly (stitches on wrong side must be parallel). Remove tacking. Cut pocket entrance. Make diagonal notches at 1-1.5 cm (3/8" - 5/8") from pocket ends. Turn the welt and pocket lining wrong side out through this hole. Fix pocket ends with double reverse stitches on wrong side along corners' base. Stitch pocket lining and serge it. Tack off-set welt to front part and press it. Topstitch welt ends. Remove tacking.
7. Stitch garment shoulder/side seams.
8. Stitch elbow seam and press it apart. Stitch sleeve front seam and press it apart.
9. Stitch side edges of sleeve facings and press them apart. Overstitch sleeve hems with facings. Press overstitching seam and topstitch at 0.5 cm (3/16") from edge.
10. Pin front facing on front part right sides together and overstitch them along edging (at front part side up to the notch determining edge of collar stitching in). Stitch front facings' lower edges to center front part along marked hem line. Cut edging upper/lower corners. Turn the edging right side our and press it.
11. Stitch inner collar into neckline.
12. Stitch sleeves into armholes according notches.
13. Stitch lining details leaving a hole into sleeve right front seam, stitch sleeves in. Press lining seams. Stitch lining to front facings' inner edges and outer collar's neckline edge. Press collar joining seams' allowances apart and fix close to seams. Topstitch at 0.5 cm (3/16") from edging.
14. Fold lining sleeves under and stitch to sleeves' facings. Fix the lining to jacket at waist level at relieve seams with 1 cm (3/8") stitch. Turn the jacket right side out through the hole in the sleeve. Stitch sleeve hole.
15. Make buttonholes, sew buttons.