Home / Women / Jackets / #5329 Tail-coat for women
Difficulty: ***
You will need: wool or semi-wool; sateen or velvet; fusing; 12 buttons; smaller buttons (for sleeve vents); lining.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Fabric:
1. Center back part - 2 details
2. Side back part - 2 details
3. Side front part - 2 details
4. Back neckline facing - 1 detail
5. Tail - 2 details
6. Inner collar - 1 detail
7. Outer collar - 1 detail
8. Center front part - 2 details
9. Front facing - 2 details
10. Flap - 4 details
11. Pocket facing - 4 details
12. Upper sleeve - 2 details
13. Lower sleeve - 2 details
Lining:
1. Center back part - 2 details
2. Side back part - 2 details
3. Side front part - 2 details
4. Center front part - 2 details
5. Upper sleeve - 2 details
6. Lower sleeve - 2 details
7. Tail - 2 details
Fusing: front facing, back neckline facing, center front part, armhole of side front part, armhole of side back part, vent segment, inner collar, hem allowance (sleeve lower part and upper sleeve part).
Instructions:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front facing, back neckline facing, center front part, armhole of side front part, armhole of side back part, vent segment, inner collar, hem allowance (sleeve lower part and upper sleeve part).
2. Lay outer collar on inner one and overstitch inner collar with outer one. Slash and turn collar corner right side out.
3. Sew the tail to side back part. Press joining seam apart.
4. Sew front and back princess seams and press them apart.
5. Overstitch flaps with under-flaps right sides together. Cut round corners' and turn right side out.
6. Mark pocket placement on front part. Apply stripe of fusing to wrong die of pocket entrance. Press pocket facings along the center right side out. Mark auxiliary line on pocket facing parallel to facing bend (to sew it). Mark auxiliary line on flap (for its sewing on) parallel to pocket upper edge, measuring flap width along its length. Mark auxiliary lines parallel to pocket entrance to sew flap and pocket facings. Sew facing to side front part. Finish stitches at parallel lines of pocket marking. Control wrong side to check if facings and flap are correctly sewn (stitches must be parallel each other). Cut pocket entrance. Make diagonal slits at 1-1.5 cm (3/8"-5/8") from pocket ends. Turn facings right side out through these slits, make facing pressed edges lay-to-lay. Fix pocket ends with double reverse stitch (on wrong side) along corner base. Stitch pocket valance to flap. Insert the flap with valance into pocket, to upper facing, and stitch. Fix pocket entrance stitching the seam joining lower facing.
7. Lay front facing on wrong side of front part, pin and overstitch along edging. (Overstitch front part up to notch pointing place of collar stitching.) Sew front facing lower edges to front part strictly along marked line of hem bend. Slash edge upper/lower corners' allowance. Topstitch edging overstitching allowance as following: at closure segment - on front facing, at lapel segments - on front part edging. Stitch at 2 cm (3/4") from seam. Turn edgings right side out.
8. Sew back middle edge. Press vent lower edge to 1 cm (3/8"). Press back middle seam and the vent towards to back center. Topstitch back middle seam diagonally along king at vent upper end catching vent allowance.
9. Sew side/shoulder seams and press them apart.
10. Sew side edges of facing and front facing and press them apart.
11. Sew sleeve elbow seam and vent ends at sleeve lower/upper parts. Press elbow seam apart, slash and press the vent.
12. Sew sleeve front seam and press it apart. Press sleeve hem down.
13. Sew sleeve into armholes according to notches. Sew shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
14. Sew inner collar into garment neckline; sew outer collar to front facing and facing.
15. Sew lining details together and sew lining sleeves into armholes leaving a slit in sleeve right front seam. Press the lining. Sew the lining to front facings inner edges and back neckline facing. Press allowance of seam joining the collar apart and fix them close to seams.
16. Overstitch front part hem with lining.
17. Fold lining sleeve hems under and stitch to garment sleeve hems, press extra fabric down. Turn the garment right side out. Pin lining tail edges to garment tail edges at 10 cm (4") and cut neatly along vent driving 1 cm (3/8") towards middle seam. Stop 1 cm (3/8") before vent top and make diagonal slits towards both directions. Fold slits under and pin them to vent edges. Pull pinned edges right side out one by one, them stitch. Correct vent edges. Fold lining corner at vent upper edge and sew it to vent allowance. Overstitch unstitched segment of tail side edge with lining.
18. Turn the garment right side out through a slit in sleeve. Press side tails. Stitch sleeve slit.
19. Make buttonholes into right front part, sew buttons on left one. Sew buttons on sleeve vent.
