Home / Women / Jackets / #5540 Shawl-Collar Jacket
Difficulty: **
RECOMMENDED FABRICS: medium-weight fabrics of natural fibers or blends.
YOU WILL NEED: shell fabric; fusible interfacing; lining; shoulder pads; polyfill for sleeve caps; 4 buttons; 6 buttons of a smaller diameter for sleeve vents.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
CUTTING:
Shell:
1. Back – 2 pieces
2. Front – 2 pieces
3. Collar – 2 pieces
4. Lapel – 2 pieces
5. Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
6. Front Facing – 2 pieces
7. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
8. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Back – 2 pieces
2. Front – 2 pieces
3. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
4. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusible Interfacing: Front Facing, Front, Back Neckline Facing, Collar, Lapel.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Reinforce Front Facing, Front, Back Neckline Facing, Collar, Lapel with fusible interfacing.
2. Mark darts at Back. Sew darts and press them towards center back. Mark front darts. Sew front darts; press them towards center front.
3. Sew Lapel to Collar, press allowances open.
4. Sew center back seam. Press allowances open.
5. Sew side and shoulder seams of jacket. Press allowances open.
6. Sew Lower Collar with Lapel into neckline of Front and Back. Press allowances open.
7. Sew shoulder seams of Back Neckline Facing and Front Facing. Press seams open. Sew Upper Collar with Lapel into neckline of Facings. Press seam open.
8. Line up Front Facing with Front face-to-face, pin and stitch along the front edge. You must stitch at Front from the bottom up to the notch for Collar. Stitch bottom of Front Facing to Front with a horizontal seam exactly at the marked hemline. Clip allowances in top and bottom corners of front edges. Understitch front edges: onto Front Facing, at the closure area; onto Front, at the lapels. Turn out front edges, press.
9. Sew elbow seam of Sleeve and top edge of sleeve vent. Press elbow seam open, while making a clip at top of the vent and pressing the vent to the side (towards Front Sleeve). Turn under bottom hem allowance of Sleeve; press. Sew front seam of Sleeve; press allowances open.
10. Sew Sleeves into armholes matching the notches. Sew shoulder pads to shoulder seam allowances. Sew stripes of polyfill inside the sleeve caps.
11. Assemble lining pieces similar to shell. Leave an opening in the front right seam of Sleeve.
12. Sew lining to inside edges of Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing. Press allowances of Collars open. Bartack allowances of Collar at neckline, to prevent Collar from rolling.
13. Sew lining to the bottom of jacket and sleeves. Turn the jacket out through the opening in Sleeve. Stitch to close sleeve opening.
14. Mark and sew a buttonhole at the right Front; sew a button to the left Front.