Home / Women / Jackets / #5539 One-Button Jacket
Difficulty: ***
RECOMMENDED FABRICS: wool or wool blends.
YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 1 button; lining; shoulder pads; stripes of polyfill for sleeve caps.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
CUTTING:
Shell:
1. Lower Collar - 1 piece
2. Upper Collar – 1 piece
3. Side Front – 2 pieces
4. Flap – 4 pieces
5. Front Facing – 2 pieces
6. Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
7. Side Back – 2 pieces
8. Center Back – 2 pieces
9. Center Front – 2 pieces
10. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
11. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Center Front – 2 pieces
2. Side Back - 2 pieces
3. Center Back – 2 pieces
4. Side Front – 2 pieces
5. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
7. Small Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
8. Large Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
Fusible Interfacing: Front Facing, reinforcement stripe for Pocket, Center Front, hem allowances of Sleeves and jacket, Back Neckline Facing, Upper Sleeve, Flap.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Reinforce Front Facing, reinforcement stripe for Pocket, Center Front, hem allowances of Sleeves and jacket, Back Neckline Facing, Upper Sleeve, and Flaps with fusible interfacing.
2. Mark darts’ placement at Fronts and Back. Sew Back darts; press them towards center back. Sew Front darts; clip allowance extra; press open.
3. Line up parts of Upper Flap face-to-face and stitch around. Clip allowances in corners of Flap. Turn out Flap to the face side. Press.
4. Reinforce Front at wrong side with fusible interfacing stripe, at the area of pocket entrance. Or you can baste together the edges of pocket entrance. Sew princess seams of Fronts. Press allowances open.
5. Cut 4 lips for Pocket with Flap and Lips. Mark pocket placement at each Front. Cut a stripe of fusible interfacing of 4 cm (1-5/8") width to reinforce pocket entrance from the wrong side of Front.
Fold each lip lengthwise in half, wrong side inside, and press.
Finish Pocket with Flap and Lips at each Front.
Lay 2 pocket lips on front part, raw edges together, pin them along pocket entrance marking and stitch. Sew Pocket Bag to Flap.
Cut the front part between stitches, cut the fabric diagonally at stitch ends. Do not cut the lips! Press slit edges in the direction opposite to entrances. Fold lips inside through the slit to make a neat frame, press; edges of lips must meet at the middle of pocket entrance. Turn small triangles at slit ends into wrong side and topstitch neatly between upper seam and lower seam ends. Insert Flap into pocket opening and stitch to upper lip.
Sew lower Pocket Bag into the seam of attaching a lower lip.
Align pocket bags, trim if necessary and stitch together at sides and bottom.
Stitch pocket bags on wrong side of flap joining seams allowance and to seams joining lower facings allowance. Adjust pocket bags, trim and stitch around at sides and bottom.
6. Line up Upper Collar with Lower Collar face-to-face; stitch around at sides and outer edge. Clip allowances; turn out the Collar; press.
7. Line up Front Facing with Front face-to-face, pin and stitch along the front edge. You must stitch at Front from the bottom up to the notch for Collar. Stitch bottom of Front Facing to Front with a horizontal seam exactly at the marked hemline. Clip allowances in top and bottom corners of front edges. Understitch front edges: onto Front Facing, at the closure area; onto Front, at the lapels. Turn out front edges, press.
8. Sew center back seam. Press allowances open. Sew back princess seams. Press allowances open. Sew shoulder and side seams of jacket. Press allowances open.
9. Sew shoulder seams of Back Neckline Facing and Front Facing. Sew Lower Collar into neckline of jacket; sew Upper Collar into neckline of Facings.
10. Sew elbow seam of Sleeve. Press allowances open. Turn under and press hem allowance of Sleeve. Sew front seam of Sleeve. Press allowances open.
11. Sew Sleeves into armholes, matching the notches. Sew shoulder pads to shoulder seams’ allowances. Sew stripes of polyfill to sleeve caps (armhole allowance at sleeve cap).
12. Assemble lining pieces similar to shell. Leave an opening in the front right seam of Sleeve.
13. Sew lining to inside edges of Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing. Press allowances of Collars open. Bartack allowances of Collar at neckline, to prevent Collar from rolling.
14. Sew lining to the bottom of jacket and sleeves. Turn the jacket out through the opening in Sleeve. Stitch to close sleeve opening.
15. Mark and sew a buttonhole at the right Front; sew a button to the left Front.