Home / Women / Jackets / #5475 Leather jacket
Difficulty: ***
You will need: artificial/natural leather, fusing, 9 buttons, lining.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Fabric:
1. Center lower back facing - 1 detail
2. Side lower back facing - 2 details
3. Front lower facing - 2 details
4. Patch pocket - 2 details
5. Yoke - 2 details
6. Center back part - 2 details
7. Side back part - 2 details
8. Inner collar - 1 detail
9. Outer collar - 1 detail
10. Side front part - 2 details
11. Center upper front part - 2 details
12. Center lower front part - 2 details
13. Front facing - 2 details
14. Back neckline facing - 1 detail
15. Yoke pocket facing - 2 details
16. Patch pocket facing - 2 details
17. Sleeve - 2 details
18. Cuff - 4 details
Lining:
1. Center back part - 2 details
2. Side back part - 2 details
3. Side front part - 2 details
4. Center upper front part - 2 details
5. Center lower front part - 2 details
6. Sleeve - 2 details
Fusing: front facing, pocket facing, back neckline facing, lower front facing, lower back facing, aides facing.
Instructions:
1. Apply the facing to wrong side of front facing, pocket facing, back neckline facing, lower front facing, lower back facing, aides facing.
2. Mark darts on front/back parts. Stitch back darts and press them towards the center. Stitch front darts and slash depths. Topstitch at 0.2 cm (1/16") from darts.
3. Sew upper front detail to lower front detail. Press allowance upwards. Sew side front part to center front part and press the seam apart.
4. Lay yoke pocket facing on the yoke right sides together, then sew them together along marked lines. Check whether facing is stitched correctly (on wrong side, stitches must be parallel to each other, the distance between them is ready facing double width). Slit pocket entrance. Make diagonal slits at 1-1.5 cm (3/8" - 5/8") from pocket ends. Turn pocket facing wrong side out through this hole. Fix pocket ends on wrong side with reverse double stitch along base of corners. Topstitch along pocket entrance. Lay yoke's wrong side on front part's right side and topstitch it along outer contour.
5. Process slit pocket on patch pocket by analogy. Lay patch pocket's wrong side on lower front part's right side and topstitch along three sides.
6. Sew middle back seam and press it. Sew back princess seams and press them. Topstitch along seams. Sew side/shoulder seams and press them apart.
7. Sew back neckline facing to front facings. Stitch outer collar into jacket neckline, stitch inner collar into facing neckline.
8. Lay front facing with collar on front part wrong sides together, pin, and stitch along edging and collar. Press collar joining seam allowances apart and fix them close to seams.
9. Fold cuffs right side out and topstitch along thee sides. Fold a cuff in a ring along marked line, and fix. Sew cuffs to sleeves, press seams towards sleeves. Topstitch along seams joining cuffs. Sew sleeves into armholes according to notches.
11. Sew lower front facing, lower back facing and side facing together. Press seams apart. Sew darts into lining details, sew seams and sew sleeves into armholes. Press lining allowances. Sew hem facing to lining Press the seam towards the lining. Sew the lining to front facing inner edges and neckline facing. Turn the jacket right side out.
12. Coincide jacket hem and facing hems and topstitch. Turn lining sleeve hem under and topstitch.
13. Make buttonholes into right front part and sew buttons on left one. Sew buttons to sleeve cuffs.
