Home / Women / Jackets / #5158 Jean Jacket
Difficulty: ***
You will need: Jean fabric; lining; fusible interfacing; 7 buttons
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Jean Fabric:
1. Center Back - 2 pieces
2. Side Back - 2 pieces
3. Back Yoke - 1 piece with fold
4. Center Front - 2 pieces
5. Middle Front - 2 pieces
6. Side Front - 2 pieces
7. Front Yoke - 1 piece with fold
8. Front Facing - 2 pieces
9. Sleeve - 2 pieces
10. Collar - 2 pieces
11. Pocket Flap - 4 pieces
12. Pocket Welt - 2 pieces
13. Back Facing – 1 piece with fold
14. Lower Pocket – 2 pieces
Lining Fabric:
14. Lower Pocket – 2 pieces
15. Upper Pocket - 4 pieces
Fusible Interfacing: upper Collar piece, Front Facings, upper Pocket Flap, Pocket Welt, Back Facing.
Instructions:
1. Using hot iron, fuse interfacing to the wrong side of the following pieces: upper Collar piece, Front Facings, upper Pocket Flap, Pocket Welt, Back Facing.
2. Sew center back seam and vertical seams of Back, serge seam allowances. Press center back seam towards left back piece; press vertical seams towards center back. Topstitch the three seams at 2 mm (1/16") (close to the seam).
3. Place Back Yoke onto the Back unit face-to-face, pin and sew. Press seam allowances towards Back Yoke and topstitch at 2 mm (1/16").
4. Sew Center Front to Middle Front, press seam allowances towards Center Front, topstitch at 2 mm. Sew Middle Front to Side Front, press seam allowances towards Side Front, topstitch at 2 mm.
5. Assemble Welt Pockets at Side Fronts.
Fold each Pocket Welt lengthwise, face side outside (!) Fuse a stripe of interfacing about 2 cm (6/8”) wide to the wrong side of Side Front at pocket entrance. Place Welt and Lower Pocket piece of jean fabric onto Side Front face-to-face, with raw edges matching pocket entrance, pin and sew along pocket entrance. Cut the Front at pocket entrance, in corners cut diagonally. Be careful not to cut through Pocket Welt and linings. Press seam allowances open. Turn Welt and Linings inside the pocket entrance and baste along the seams.
Place another Pocket Lining (of lining fabric) onto the wrong side of Welt, and topstitch the seam of Welt at the face side, attaching Pocket Lining at the same time. Turn and press the lining down. Turn to the inside the small triangles at the ends of pocket entrance, and stitch them onto Linings and ends of Welt between the two seams of pocket entrance. Trim Pocket Linings to fit each other, and sew them around to each other. At the face side, topstitch pocket entrance at 2 mm.
6. Assemble Flap Pockets. Assemble Flaps: place two Flap pieces face-to-face, stitch around two short sides and one long side, turn out, press and topstitch at 2 mm (close to the edge). Match raw edges of Flap with raw edge of Front Yoke, placing the pieces face-to-face. On top of Flap, put upper Pocket Lining and baste all three pieces. Match raw edges of Front unit and lower Pocket Lining piece. Sew Flap and linings. Sew together Front Yoke and Front. Turn the linings to the inside, trim to fit each other and sew together. Clip seam allowances at the ends of flap pocket. Press seam allowances towards Front Yoke and topstitch.
7. Sew side and shoulder seams. Press seams to the side, topstitch at 2 mm.
8. Sew lower Collar onto neckline. Sew Front Facings to Back Neck Facing. Sew Collar into neckline of Front Facings/Back Neck Facing. Press seam allowances open, clip allowances at rounded edges.
9. Place Upper Collar with Front Facings/Back Neck Facing onto the jacket, face-to-face, and sew around at center front edges and outer collar edge. Turn out and press. Turn under the raw edge of upper Collar and topstitch it onto neckline. Topstitch front edges and collar at 2 mm.
10. Sew upper sleeve seams, press to one side and topstitch at 2 mm. Sew sleeves into armholes, matching the notches, direct seam allowances towards the jacket and topstitch at 2 mm.
11. Turn under and press hem allowances of jacket and sleeves, turn under the raw edges of hem allowances and topstitch hemming from the inside.
12. Make buttonholes into the right Front according to markings, sew buttons to the left Front. Sew buttons to Flaps.
