Home / Women / Jackets / #5543 Jacket With Zipper
Difficulty: **
Recommended fabrics: medium-weight wool or blend fabrics.
You will need: shell fabrics; fusible interfacing; lining; separating zipper; shoulder pads; 2 stripes of polyfill for sleeve heads.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Shell:
1. Side Back – 2 pieces
2. Side Front – 2 pieces
3. Front Facing – 2 pieces
4. Collar – 2 pieces
5. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
7. Center Back – 2 pieces
8. Front Yoke – 2 pieces
9. Center Front – 2 pieces
10. Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
Lining:
1. Side Back – 2 pieces
2. Side Front – 2 pieces
3. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
4. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
5. Center Back – 2 pieces
6. Front Yoke – 2 pieces
7. Center Front – 2 pieces
Fusible Interfacing: Front Facing, Back Neckline Facing, Upper Collar, Center Front.
Instructions:
1. Reinforce Front Facing, Back Neckline Facing, Upper Collar, Center Front with fusible interfacing.
2. Sew Center Front to Side Front. Press seam open.
3. Sew Front Yoke to Fronts. Press seam open.
4. Line up Collar pieces face-to-face, stitch together at three outer sides. Clip allowances; turn out and press the Collar.
5. Sew princess seams of Back and center back seam. Press seam allowances open.
6. Line up Fronts to compare length of front edges, trim off excess if necessary. Separate zipper. Sew sides of zipper to front edges. Turn under front edges of Fronts at the area of zipper, press.
7. Line up Front Facing and Front at front edges, face-to-face, pin and stitch along the front edge. Note: you must stitch at Front part. Stitch horizontally bottom of Front Facing to the bottom of Front, exactly at the hemline. Clip allowances in top and bottom corners of fronts. Turn out to the face side and topstitch front edges along zipper at 0.5 cm (3/16").
8. Sew side and shoulder seams of jacket. Press allowances open.
9. Sew shoulder seams of Back Neckline Facing and Front Facings. Press seams open. Sew Lower Collar into neckline of jacket; sew Upper Collar into neckline of Facings.
10. Sew elbow and front seams of Sleeve. Press allowances open. Turn under and press allowance at bottom of Sleeve.
11. Sew Sleeves into armholes, matching the notches. Sew shoulder pads and stripes of polyfill for sleeve heads.
12. Assemble lining parts similar to shell, leaving an opening in the right front sleeve seam.
13. Sew lining to the inside edge of Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing. Press open neckline seams. Sew together neckline allowances of Upper and Lower Collars, to prevent the Collar from distorting.
14. Sew lining to shell at bottom hem and bottom of sleeves. Turn the jacket out through the sleeve opening. Stitch to close the sleeve opening.