Home / Women / Jackets / #5546 Jacket with Topstitching
Difficulty: **
Recommended fabrics: medium-weight suit-type fabrics, natural or artificial fibers.
You will need: shell fabric; fusible interfacing; 3 buttons; lining; shoulder pads; stripes of polyfill for sleeve caps.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Shell:
1. Center Back – 2 pieces
2. Side Back – 2 pieces
3. Side Bottom Front – 2 pieces
4. Side Top Front – 2 pieces
5. Center Top Front – 2 pieces
6. Center Bottom Front – 2 pieces
7. Middle Bottom Front – 2 pieces
8. Middle Top Front – 2 pieces
9. Front Facing – 2 pieces
10. Lower Collar – 1 piece
11. Upper Collar – 1 piece
12. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
13. Back Collar – 2 pieces
14. Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
Lining:
1. Center Back – 2 pieces
2. Side Back – 2 pieces
3. Side Bottom Front – 2 pieces
4. Side Top Front – 2 pieces
5. Center Top Front – 2 pieces
6. Center Bottom Front – 2 pieces
7. Middle Bottom Front – 2 pieces
8. Middle Top Front – 2 pieces
9. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
10. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusible Interfacing: Front Facing, Upper Collar, Back Neckline Facing, Center Top Front, Center Bottom Front, Middle Top Front, Middle Bottom Front, Side Top Front, Side Bottom Front.
Instructions:
1. Reinforce Front Facings, Upper Collar, Back Neckline Facing, Center Top Front, Center Bottom Front, Middle Top Front, Middle Bottom Front, Side Top Front, Side Bottom Front with fusible interfacing.
2. Line up Upper and Lower Collars, sew together at three outer sides. Clip allowances in corners, turn out the Collar, press.
3. Sew Middle Bottom Front to Center Bottom Front. Press seam open. Topstitch the seam at 0.5 cm (3/16”).
Sew Side Bottom Front to Middle Bottom Front. Press seam open. Topstitch the seam at 0.5 cm.
Sew Middle Top Front to Center Top Front. Press seam open. Topstitch the seam at 0.5 cm.
Sew Side Top Front to Middle Top Front. Press the seam open. Topstitch the seam at 0.5 cm.
Sew Top Front to Bottom Front. Press seam open, topstitch the seam at 0.5 cm.
4. Line up Front Facing with Front face-to-face, pin and stitch together along front edge. Stitch at the Front (with Front Facing underneath), from bottom up to the notch for Collar. Sew Front Facing to Front along bottom hem line. Clip allowances in top and bottom corners of front edge. Understitch front edge seam: at the closure area, to Front Facing; at lapels, to Front. Turn out fronts, press.
5. Sew princess seams of Back. Press seams open. Sew center back seam. Press seam open. Topstitch princess seams and center back seam at 0.5 cm.
6. Sew shoulder and side seams of jacket. Press seams open.
7. Sew shoulder seams of Back Neckline Facing and Front Facings. Press seams open. Sew Lower Collar into neckline of jacket; sew Upper Collar into neckline of Facings.
8. Sew front seam of Sleeve. Press seam open. Topstitch the seam at 0.5 cm. Press under hem allowance of Sleeve. Sew elbow seam of Sleeve. Press allowances open.
9. Sew Sleeves into armholes, matching the notches. Sew shoulder pads. Sew stripes of polyfill to the armhole allowances of sleeve cap.
10. Assemble lining pieces similar to shell, leaving an opening in the right front seam.
11. Sew lining to inside edges of Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing. Press neckline seams allowances open. Staystitch neckline allowances of Upper and Lower Collars together, to prevent Collar from distorting.
12. Sew lining to shell at bottoms of Sleeves and bottom of jacket. Turn the jacket out through the sleeve opening. Stitch to close an opening in the Sleeve.
13. Mark and work buttonholes into right Front, sew buttons at left Front accordingly.