Home / Women / Jackets / #5551 Jacket With Tie
Difficulty: **
Recommended fabrics: medium-weight suit-type fabrics of natural and artificial fibers, such as cotton/polyester poplin.
You will need: shell fabric; fusible interfacing; separating zipper (refer to your pattern for zipper length); lining; shoulder pads; stripes of polyfill for sleeve caps; 2 buttons.Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Shell:
1. Back – 2 pieces
2. Front – 2 pieces
3. Front Yoke – 2 pieces
4. Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
5. Front Facing – 2 pieces
6. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
7. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
8. Sleeve Strap – 2 pieces
9. Pocket – 2 pieces
10. Pocket Flap – 4 pieces
11. Belt/Tie – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Back – 2 pieces
2. Front – 2 pieces
3. Front Yoke – 2 pieces
4. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
5. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Pocket – 2 pieces
Fusible interfacing: Front Facings; Back Neckline Facing; Fronts; Flaps; Upper Collar; Front Yokes.
Instructions:
1. Reinforce Front Facings; Back Neckline Facing; Fronts; Flaps; Upper Collar; Front Yokes with fusible interfacing.
2. Mark darts at Fronts and Back. Sew darts. Clip allowances of darts lengthwise, to press them open.
3. Line up every 2 Flap pieces face-to-face and stitch together at three outer sides. Clip allowances, turn out Flaps, press.
4. Mark Pocket placement at each Front. Line up each Pocket part with Pocket lining face-to-face, stitch together all around, leaving an opening of 5 cm (2”) at one side. Cut off allowances of rounded corners of Pocket. Turn out the Pocket through the opening. Press. Apply the Pocket to Front at the marks, topstitch at sides and bottom. Mark Flap placement at each Front. Apply Flap at mark line, raw edges towards the Pocket, and topstitch. Turn the Flap down and topstitch at 0.5 cm (3/16”) from the seam, to cover raw edges.
5. Line up Fronts to make sure front edges are equal in length. Cut off extra if necessary. Separate zipper. Sew each side of zipper to corresponding front edge of Front. Turn under raw front edges of Fronts, press.
6. Sew side and shoulder seams of jacket. Press allowances open.
7. Sew shoulder seams of Back Neckline Facing and Front Facings. Press seams open. Line up Facings with jacket at neckline and front edges, pin. Sew Facings to neckline and fronts, stitching at Fronts, not Facings.
8. Sew bottom of Front Facing to Front with a horizontal seam, going exactly at level of hemline. Clip allowances in upper and lower corners of front edges. Turn the Facings to the wrong side. Press jacket at neckline and front edges. Topstitch Fronts and neckline at 0.5 cm (3/16”).
9. Fold each Sleeve Strap lengthwise in half, face side inside, and sew at three sides, leaving one short end open. Clip allowances in corners, turn out and press Sleeve Strap. Line up raw edge of Sleeve Strap with raw edge of Sleeve, as per pattern marks, staystitch at allowance.
10. Sew elbow seam of Sleeve. Press seam open. Turn under and press bottom hem allowance of Sleeve. Sew front seam of Sleeve. Press seam open. Bartack Sleeve Strap to front seam of Sleeve, all the way across the Strap.
11. Sew Sleeves into armholes as per notches. Sew shoulder pads. Sew stripes of polyfill to armhole allowances at sleeve cap.
12. Assemble lining pieces similar to shell, leaving an opening in the right front seam of sleeve.
13. Sew lining to the inside edges of Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing.
14. Sew lining to the bottom of jacket and sleeves. Turn the jacket out through the sleeve opening. Stitch to close sleeve opening.
15. Line up Belt/Tie pieces, face sides inside, and stitch together all around, leaving an opening of 2-3” at the long side of Belt. Clip allowances in corners, turn out the Belt, press. Topstitch the Belt all the way around, at 0.5 cm from the edge.
16. Mark buttonhole placement at each Flap. Work buttonholes into Flaps. Sew buttons to Pockets accordingly. Button the Flaps. Pull the Belt/Tie between Flaps and jacket.