Home / Women / Jackets / #5538 Jacket With Stand Collar
Difficulty: **
Recommended fabrics: natural or blended fabrics, such as poplin.
You will need: fusible interfacing; lining; shoulder pads; stripes of polyfill for sleeve caps; Velcro tape dyed-to-match.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Shell:
1. Center Front – 2 pieces
2. Side Front – 2 pieces
3. Center Back – 2 pieces
4. Side Back – 2 pieces
5. Stand Collar – 2 pieces
6. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
7. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
8. Front Facing – 2 pieces
9. Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
10. Front Yoke – 2 pieces
11. Flap 1 – 2 pieces
12. Side Pocket Part (Facing) 1 – 1 piece
13. Patch Pocket 1 – 1 piece
14. Flap 2 – 8 pieces
15. Side Pocket Part (Facing) 2 – 4 pieces
16. Patch Pocket 2 – 4 pieces
Lining:
1. Center Front – 2 pieces
2. Side Front – 2 pieces
3. Center Back – 2 pieces
4. Side Back – 2 pieces
5. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusible Interfacing: Front Facing, Flap, Back Neckline Facing, Center Fronts, Side Fronts, Outer Stand Collar.
Instructions:
1. Reinforce Front Facing, Flap, Back Neckline Facing, Center Fronts, Side Fronts, Outer Stand Collar with fusible interfacing.
2. Mark darts at Back. Sew darts; press them towards center back.
3. Line up Collar pieces face-to-face, stitch around at three outer sides. Clip allowances in corners; turn out the Collar, press.
4. Sew center back seam; press seam open.
5. Sew princess seams of Fronts and Back. Press seams open.
6. Sew Front Yoke to Front. Press seams open.
7. Line up two pieces of Upper Pocket Flap face-to-face, stitch together at outer edges. Turn the Flap out through the open side, press. Double-topstitch finished edges of Flap. Mark placement of Flap at Front. Serge short ends of Side Pocket Part (Facing). Sew the Facing to side and bottom edges of Pocket; serge the allowances. Turn under top edge of Pocket and Facing, topstitch. Make a fold at the top end of Pocket Facing, Staystitch the folded Facing to Pocket with a vertical bartack. Apply Pocket to Front as per pattern markings, baste and topstitch. Apply Flap to Front so that raw edges of Flap are directed towards the Pocket, baste and topstitch. Turn the Flap down and topstitch at 0.2 cm from the previous seam. Other Pockets (including a Pocket for right Sleeve) are assembled in the same manner.
8. Line up Front Facing with Front at front edge, pin and stitch together, from the bottom up to the notch for Collar. Sew bottom of Front Facing to Front with a horizontal stitching, matching the hemline. Clip allowances in top and bottom corners of front edge. Understitch front edge. Turn the garment to the face side, press front edges.
9. Sew and press open side and shoulder seams of jacket.
10. Sew shoulder seams of Back Neckline Facing and Front Facings. Sew outer Collar into neckline of jacket; sew inner Collar into neckline of Facings.
11. Sew elbow seam of Sleeve. Mark placement of Pocket and Flap at right Sleeve. Apply and topstitch Pocket and Flap to Sleeve. Turn under and press hem allowance of Sleeves. Sew front seam of Sleeve, press allowances open.
12. Sew Sleeves into armholes as per notches. Sew shoulder pads to shoulder seam allowances. Sew stripes of polyfill to armhole allowances of sleeve caps.
13. Assemble lining pieces similar to shell, leaving an opening in the right front seam.
14. Sew lining to the inside edges of Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing. Press neckline allowances open. Staystitch neckline allowances of outer and inner Collars together, to prevent Collar from distorting.
15. Sew lining to the bottom of jacket and sleeve bottoms. Turn the jacket out through the opening in front sleeve seam. Stitch to close sides of sleeve opening.
16. Mark placement of Velcro tape at Fronts. Stitch Velcroes to Fronts.