Home / Women / Jackets / #5599 Jacket With Shirred Collar
Difficulty: **
Recommended fabrics: medium-to-lightweight fabrics of natural or artificial fibers
You will need: shell fabric; fusible interfacing, lining, shoulder pads, 2 large eyelets, drawcord for Collar, decorative tape for ties.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Shell:
1. Side Back – 2 pieces
2. Side Front – 2 pieces
3. Collar – 1 piece
4. Center Back – 2 pieces
5. Center Front – 4 pieces
6. Sleeve – 2 pieces
7. Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
Lining:
1. Side Back – 2 pieces
2. Side Front – 2 pieces
3. Center Back – 2 pieces
4. Sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusible Interfacing: Back Neckline Facing, Center Fronts.
Instructions:
1. Reinforce Back Neckline Facing, 2 Center Fronts.
2. Mark darts at Back. Sew darts, press them towards center Back.
3. Fold the Collar lengthwise face-to-face, stitch at short ends, leaving openings for drawcord. Turn out the Collar, press seams. Machine-baste at the edge of Collar, pull to make gathers.
4. Sew princess seams of Fronts. Press seams open.
5. Sew center back seam, press it open. Sew princess seams of Back, shoulder and side seams of jacket. Press all allowances open.
6. Sew under-sleeve seam, press allowances open.
7. Sew Sleeves into armholes, matching the notches.
8. Sew Collar to Front.
9. Sew princess seams of lining. Serge the seams. Sew Back Neckline Facing to the lining. Center Front part is used as Front Facing. Sew shoulder and side seams of lining. Serge the seams. Sew Sleeve seams, leaving an opening in the right Sleeve for turning out the garment. Sleeves into armholes.
10. Line up shell and lining face-to-face, stitch together at front edges. Sew bottoms of Front Facings to the Fronts exactly at the marked line of bottom hem. Clip allowances in bottom front corners. Understitch front edges, starting and ending the seam about 3 cm (1-3/16”) from the top and bottom corners. Remove basting threads.
11. Sew lining to the bottom of jacket and sleeve bottoms. Turn the jacket out to the face side through the sleeve opening. Stitch to close sleeve opening.
12. Mark placement of eyelets at Fronts. Install eyelets.
13. Insert drawcord through the collar and pull to make gathers.