Home / Women / Jackets / #5544 Jacket With Figured Dart
Difficulty: **
Recommended fabrics: suiting of natural fibers or blends.
You will need: shell fabrics; fusible interfacing; lining; shoulder pads; stripes of polyfill for sleeve caps; 5 buttons; 6 smaller matching buttons for sleeve vents.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Shell:
1. Center Back – 2 pieces
2. Side Back – 2 pieces
3. Side Front – 2 pieces
4. Center Front – 2 pieces
5. Front Facing – 2 pieces
6. Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
7. Lower Collar – 1 piece
8. Upper Collar – 1 piece
9. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
10. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Center Back – 2 pieces
2. Side Back – 2 pieces
3. Side Front – 2 pieces
4. Center Front – 2 pieces
5. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusible Interfacing: Front Facing; Back Neckline Facing; Center Front; Upper Collar.
Instructions:
1. Reinforce Front Facing; Back Neckline Facing; Center Front; Upper Collar with fusible interfacing.
2. Mark darts at Back. Sew darts, press them towards center back. Mark darts at Fronts. Sew darts, press towards center front.
3. Line up Upper and Lower Collars. Sew together at three outer sides. Clip allowances in corners; turn out the Collar, press.
4. Sew Princess seams of Fronts. Press seam allowances open.
5. Line up Front Facings with Fronts at front edges, pin and stitch together along front edges. You must stitch at the side of Front. Sew Front Facings to Fronts at the bottom, making a horizontal seam along the marked line at the level of hemline. Clip allowances in bottom corners of fronts. Understitch front edge allowance, ending the understitching 1” from top and bottom ends of front edge. Turn out Fronts to the face side.
6. Sew center back seam. Sew princess seams of Back. Press seam allowances open. Sew shoulder and side seams. Press allowances open.
7. Sew shoulder seams of Back Neckline Facing and Front Facings. Sew Lower Collar into neckline of jacket; sew Upper Collar into neckline of Facings.
8. Sew elbow seam of Sleeve. Sew corners of Sleeve vent at Front Sleeve and Back Sleeve. Press elbow seam allowances open, clip allowance at top of vent and press down sleeve vent. Turn under and press sleeve hem allowance. Sew front seam of sleeve. Press allowances open.
9. Sew Sleeves into armholes, matching the notches. Sew shoulder pads and stripes of polyfill, to armhole allowances at sleeve caps.
10. Assemble pieces of lining similar to shell, leaving an opening in the front seam of right Sleeve.
11. Sew lining to inside raw edges of Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing. Press neckline allowances open. Staystitch Collar allowances together to prevent Collar from distorting.
12. Sew lining to the bottom of jacket and sleeve bottoms. Turn the jacket out through the sleeve opening. Stitch to close sleeve opening.
13. Mark placement and work buttonholes into the right Front; sew buttons to the left Front. Mark and sew buttons to the sleeve vent.