Home / Women / Jackets / #5315 Jacket with figure closing
Difficulty: ***
Recommended fabrics: wool fabric suitable for coats.
You will need: fusible interfacing; 6 buttons; lining.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Fabric:
1. Center back part – 2 details
2. Side back part – 2 details
3. Back yoke – 1 detail
4. Front yoke – 2 details
5. Side front part – 2 details
6. Center front part – 2 details
7. Inner collar – 1 detail
8. Outer collar – 1 detail
9. Belt – 4 details
10. Front facing – 2 details
11. Upper sleeve – 2 details
12. Lower sleeve – 2 details
Lining:
1. Center back part – 1 detail
2. Side back part - 2 details
3. Side font part – 2 details
4. Center front part – 2 details
5. Upper sleeve – 2 details
6. Lower sleeve – 2 details
Fusible interfacing: front facing, center front part front yoke, back yoke, side back part armhole, inner collar; hem allowance: side back part, center back part, lower sleeve, upper sleeve.
Our advice: if wished, you can insert a contrast piping into overstitching seams: collar, edge and belt, as well as into sleeve hem and garment hem seams.
Instructions:
1. Strengthen the upper center front part, center front part, front yoke, side back part armhole, inner collar; hem allowance: side back part, center back part, lower sleeve, upper sleeve.
2. Overstitch inner collar with outer one (right sides together). Cut, then turn the collar right side out.
3. Overstitch the belt along the outer contour. Cut the corners, then tuck the belt. Press belt and oversew the loop.
4. Sew and press front princess seams. Topsitch along front princess seam at 0.7 cm (1/4").
5. Sew back princess seams inserting the belt between. Press the back princess seams and topstitch along back princess seam at 0.7 cm (1/4").
6. Pin the front facing and front part right sides together, then overstitch along the edge, on the front part side, up to the notch pointing the end of sewing-in the collar. Sew front facings low edges strictly along the marked line of hem turning-under. Cut upper and lower seams of the edge. Topstitch joining seam allowance into the front facing, on 0.2 cm (1/16") from the seam. Turn edges into right side, trim seams.
7. Sew shoulder and side seams, then press apart.
8. Sew inner collar to neckline, then sew outer one to front facings.
9. Sew sleeve elbow seam, then press. Topstitch along elbow seam on 0.7 cm distance from joining seam.
10. Sew sleeve front seam, then press. Press sleeve hem into the wrong side.
11. Sew sleeves into armholes according to notches. Sew shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
12. Sew lining sleeve seams, then sew the sleeves into, with the holes into front right seam of sleeves. Sew the lining to front facing and outer collar inner edges. Press collar joining seam allowances apart and fix sew near seams.
13. Sew the lining to garment and sleeves hems. Turn the garment right side out through holes in sleeves, then sew holes.
14. Work buttonholes into right front part, and sew buttons to the left one.