Home / Women / Jackets / #5479 Jacket with coulisses
Difficulty: **
You will need: fabric suitable for cloaks, fusing, eyelets, elastic band, zipper.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Fabric:
1. Stand-up collar - 2 details
2. Center back part - 2 details
3. Side back part- 2 details
4. Side front part - 2 details
5. Center front part - 2 details
6. Front facing - 2 details
7. Pocket - 1 detail
8. Pocket facing - 1 detail
9. Right upper sleeve - 1 detail
10. Right lower sleeve - 1 detail
11. Left sleeve - 1 detail
12. Back neckline facing - 1 detail
Lining:
1. Center back part - 2 details
2. Side back part - 2 details
3. Center front part - 2 details
4. Sleeve - 2 details
Fusing: stand-up collar, front facing, pocket facing.
Instructions:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of stand-up collar, front facing, pocket facing.
2. Stitch front relieve seams and press them apart. Stitch back relieve seams and press them apart. Stitch middle back seam and press it apart.
3. Make eyelets into pocket. Serge pocket facing lower edge. Lay facing on pocket right sides together and overstitch pocket upper edge. Turn pocket facing into wrong side and press pocket upper edge. Pull the cord into eyelets. Fix the cord to pocket side edges. Serge the pocket along the contour. Pull the cord together and press the pocket along contour according to pattern. Topstitch the pocket on left front part.
4. Make eyelets according to marking close to side edge at front/back parts. Stitch garment shoulder edges. Press shoulder/side edges apart. Stitch outer stand-up into neckline. Stitch the zipper to edge according to notches. Press edge at closure segment into wrong side.
5. Stitch shoulder front facing shoulder edges and facing together and press them apart. Stitch inner stand-up into neckline of front facing and back neckline facing.
6. Pin front facing on front part right sides together and overstitch along edges (on front part side upwards, leaving a hole for a coulisse). Stitch front facing lower edges to front part strictly along hem line. Overstitch outer stand-up collar with inner one. Remove pins. Turn corners right side out and press them. Press allowances seam joining stand-up collar apart and fix together close to seams. Topstitch along the stand-up and pull the elastic band into.
7. Stitch side seams and press them apart.
8. Make eyelets into right lower sleeve. Topstitch along marking for cord. Sew upper sleeve to lower sleeve. Pull the elastic cord into eyelets and fix the cord on sleeve edges. Stitch right/left sleeves lower edge and press it apart. Press sleeve hems under.
9. Stitch sleeves into armholes.
10. Stitch liming details and stitch sleeves into armholes. Press lining allowances into wrong side.
11. Stitch the lining to inner edges of front facings and facing.
12. Press garment hem. Overstitch sleeve hems with lining. Pin fabric edges and lining edges together. Topstitch at 1 cm (3/8") from side seam. Pull elastic band and fix it with horizontal stitch of 2 cm (3/4") length a bit under the armhole. Fold garment and lining hem into wrong side and topstitch them together. Topstitch at 0.5 cm (3/16") from edge.