Home / Women / Jackets / #5455 Jacket
Difficulty: ***
You will need: silk, fusing, 3 buttons, lining, shoulder pads, sleeve head.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Fabric:
1. Lower side front part - 2 details
2. Center front part - 2 details
3. Side - 2 details
4. Middle back part - 2 details
5. Flap - 4 details
6. Front facing - 2 details
7. Inner collar - 1 detail
8. Outer collar - 1 detail
9. Upper sleeve - 2 details
10. Lower sleeve - 2 details
11. Back neckline facing - 1 detail
Lining:
1. Front part - 2 details
2. Side - 2 details
3. Back part - 2 details
4. Pocket lining - 4 details
5. Upper sleeve - 2 details
6. Lower sleeve - 2 details
Fusing: front facing, flap, pocket entrance stripe, front part, back neckline facing, sleeve hems, garment hem.
Instuctions:
1. Apply the fusing to front facing, flap, sleeve hem, back neckline facing.
2. Sew back darts and press them toward back center. Sew front darts up to front notches and slash dart depth. Cut pocket entrance.
3. Sew lower side part to front part and press the seam apart.
4. Lay flap details right sides together and overstitch. Slash corner allowance and turn right side out. Overstitch outer collar and inner collar. Press the collar
5. Cut facings of side slit pocket. Fix pocket entrance with pocket entrance stripe or tack it. Press pocket facings along the center wrong side together. Mark auxiliary line on pocket facing, folding line for sewing the facing. Mark auxiliary line on flap, for sewing it parallel to flap upper edge, measuring flap width. Mark auxiliary lines parallel to pocket entrance to sew flap and pocket facings. Sew pocket lining to flap. Sew facings to front part. Stop stitching close to parallel lines pf pocket marking. Check facings from wrong side (stitches must be parallel). Cut pocket entrance. Cake diagonal notches at 1-1.5 cm (5/8") from pocket ends. Turn facings right side out through this slit; facing pressed folds must be parallel each other. Fix pocket ends on wrong side with reversed double stitch at corner bases. Sew lining to flap. Insert the flap into pocket and stitch it to pocket upper facing. Sew pocket lower lining on seam joining lower facing, then slash ad stitch pocket lining.
6. Sew back middle edges. Press vent edge at 1 cm (3/8"). Press back middle and the vent toward back center. Topstitch back middle seam at vent top diagonally, catching vent allowance.
7. Pin front facing with front part right side together and overstitch along edge. Overstitch on front part side up to upper notch (pointing the end of sewing collar in). Stitch front facings lower edges to front part strictly along marked hemline. Slash allowances of edge upper/lower corners. Edgestitch front edges: in the closure area – stitch on front facing, in the lapels area – stitch on front.
8. Sew front and back princess seams and press them apart. Sew shoulder/side seams of garment and press them apart.
9. Sew shoulder edges of back neckline/front facing facings. Sew inner collar in garment neckline. Sew outer collar in neckline of back facing.
10. Sew sleeve elbow seam and press it apart. Sew sleeve font seam and press it apart. Press sleeve hem.
11. Sew sleeves into armholes coinciding notches. Sew shoulder pads and sleeve head.
12. Sew lining sleeves in lining details leaving a slit in sleeve right front seam. Press lining. Sew lining to inner edges of front facings and back neckline facing. Press collar joining seam allowance apart and sew close to seams.
13. Fold lining sleeves under and sew to garment sleeve hem. Fold extra lining under and press. Turn the garment right side out. Pin lining side seams with garment side seams and cut preciously along vent edges, 1 cm (3/8") towards middle seam. Make 1 cm diagonal cuts toward both directions 1 cm before vent. Fold slits under and pin with vent edges. Take pinned edges and pull them one by one right side out. Sew edges and fold hem under. At vent top, turn lining corner and sew to vent allowance. Sew lining to garment hem. Turn garment through slit in sleeve. Sew the slit.
14. Make buttonholes in right edge and sew buttons on left one.