Home / Women / Jackets / #5051 Folk-Style Jacket
Difficulty: ***
You will need: thick wool or wool-blend fabric, knit binding of contrasting color, lining, fusible interfacing, 4 buttons.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Jacket Fabric:
Front – 2 pieces
Back -1 piece with fold
Collar – 2 pieces
Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
Sleeve Facing – 2 pieces
Front Facing – 2 pieces
Pocket – 2 pieces
Lining:
Front – 2 pieces
Back – 1 piece with fold
Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
Pocket – 2 pieces
Fusible Interfacing:
Collar – 1 piece
Front Facing – 2 pieces
Pocket – 2 pieces
Instructions:
1. Make 4 welted buttonholes at the right Front piece and 1 welted buttonhole at the lapel of right Front Facing. From knit binding cut 10 stripes 5 cm (2”) long each (these are buttonhole welts, or facings), fold each stripe lengthwise and press. Place every two welts onto Front as per buttonhole marking, with folds facing outside and selvages matching at center line, and stitch onto Front with 0.75 cm (1/4“) distance between the two seams (gauge of buttonhole). Cut the Front between the two seams, in corners cut diagonally. Turn the welts inside the cut, turn inside the small triangles at buttonhole ends, forming a frame and press. Baste together the folds of two welts at center. At the wrong side of Front, stitch small triangles onto loose ends of welts at sides of the buttonhole.
2. Sew darts and shoulder seams of the jacket, as well as of lining.
3. Stitch Sleeve Facings to Sleeves of lining. Set Sleeves into armholes, set lining Sleeves into armholes of lining. Sew lower sleeve seams and side seams at one go, leaving openings at bottom for the side vents.
Sew one piece of collar into jacket neckline up to the notch. Sew another piece of collar into neckline of lining, clipping allowance of Front in the corner. Press open neckline allowances.
4. Cut off along the notch allowances of Pocket at top. Bind the top of Pocket with the binding. Tuck under the rest raw edges of Pocket, press. Place Pocket onto Front as per marking, pin and edgestitch.
5. Attach shoulder pads.
6. Place lining inside the jacket. At top of armhole, hand-stitch lining to shoulder pads. At armhole bottom, stitch lining to side seams’ allowances.
7. Stitch the jacket at front edges, collar, jacket hem and sleeves hem at 0.5 cm (3/16”) distance from the marked line. Cut off seam allowances at the marked line along above edges.
8. Bind the front edges, collar, hem and sleeve hem. Baste Front and Front Facing around each buttonhole. Make a cut under each buttonhole, except for the buttonhole at lapel, clipping diagonally in the corners. Turn inside the raw edges and hand-stitch to the buttonhole welts.
9. Sew 4 buttons onto left Front, as well as one button onto buttonhole of the right lapel.