Home / Women / Jackets / #5494 Double-breast jacket
Difficulty: **
You will need: fabric suitable for cloaks, fusing, 7 buttons, lining.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Fabric:
1. Back neckline facing - 1 detail
2. Back yoke - 1 detail
3. Center back part - 2 details
4. Side back part - 2 details
5. Inner collar - 1 detail
6. Outer collar - 1 detail
7. Side front part - 2 details
8. Front yoke - 2 details
9. Center front part - 2 details
10. Front facing - 2 details
11. Upper sleeve - 2 details
12. Lower sleeve - 2 details
13. Sleeve insert - 2 details
14. Cuff - 2 details
Lining:
1. Back yoke - 1 detail
2. Center back part - 2 details
3. Side back part - 2 details
4. Side front part - 2 details
5. Center front part - 2 details
6. Upper sleeve - 2 details
7. Lower sleeve - 2 details
Fusing: front facing, center front part, inner collar, front yoke.
Instructions:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front facing, center front part, inner collar, front yoke.
2. Lay outer collar on inner collar, right sides together; overstitch inner collar with outer one. Slash collar corners and turn the, right side out. Press the collar.
3. Stitch front/back relieve seams and pres them apart. Stitch back middle seam and press it apart. Mark front yoke darts and stitch them. Press darts towards front yoke center. Sew the yoke to front part and press joining seam apart. Sew back yoke to back part and press joining seam apart.
4. Lay front facing on front part, right sides together, pin them together and overstitch along marked line (from front part up to the notch marking end of stitching collar in). Sew front facing hems to front part strictly along hem line. Cut corners of edging upper/lower corners. Topstitch allowance of seam overstitching edging: at closure segment - on front facing, at lapel segment - on lapel (topstitch at 0.2 cm (1/16") from seam). Remove pins. Turn edgings right side out, press seams.
5. Stitch shoulder/side edges of garment. Press shoulder/side seams apart.
6. Sew sleeve elbow edge and press it apart. Sew sleeve insert to the sleeve. Press joining seam apart. Sew cuffs to lower sleeves. Press joining seams apart. Sew sleeve front edge and press apart. Press sleeve hems down.
7. Sew inner collar into garment neckline. Sew sleeves into armholes according to notches.
8. Sew lining details together and sew lining sleeves into armholes leaving a hole into sleeve right front seam. Press lining allowance. Sew lining to front facing inner edges and to outer collar. Press allowances of joining collar apart and fix them near seams.
9. Mark garment hem line and press it under. Overstitch sleeve hems and garment hem with lining. Fix lining to garment at waist seams. Turn the garment right side out through sleeve hole. Stitch the hole.
10. Make buttonholes into front part. Sew buttons. Sew blind button.