Home / Women / Dresses / #5523 Empire-style dress
Difficulty: **
You will need: natural or mixed fabric, invisible zipper, lining, elastic braid.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Fabric:
1. Center upper front part – 1 piece
2. Side upper front part – 2 pieces
3. Center lower front part – 2 pieces
4. Middle lower font part – 2 pieces
5. Side lower front part – 2 pieces
6. Gusset – 12 pieces
7. Side lower back part – 2 pieces
8. Center lower back part – 2 pieces
9. Side upper back part – 2 pieces
10. Center upper back part – 2 pieces
11. Middle lower back part – 2 pieces
12. Sleeve – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Center back part – 2 pieces
2. Side back part – 2 pieces
3. Center upper front part – 1 piece
4. Center lower front part – 1 piece
5. Side front part – 2 pieces
Fusing: front/back armholes’ facing.
Instructions:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front/back armholes’ facing.
2. Stitch bust darts and press them towards the center.
3. Stitch bust darts into upper front part lining. Press darts towards the center. Stitch front lining to back lining. Serge joining seams and press them backward. Serge lining hem, press it into wrong side and topstitch. Serge lining middle edge, stitch up to closure notch and press it apart.
4. Stitch the gusset to center lower front part, serge joining seam 4 cm (1-5/8") above the notch. Stitch middle seam of center lower front part to gusset side edge and serge it. Press middle seam pressing gusset’s side edge.
5. Stitch the gusset to middle lower front part; serge joining seam 4 cm above the notch. Stitch middle lower front part (with gusset) to center lower front part. Serge joining seam and press it pressing gusset side edge.
6. Stitch center upper front part to center lower part; serge joining seam and press it downwards. Stitch side upper front part to side lower part. Serge the seams joining side front parts and press it downwards. Stitch the gusset to side front part, serge joining seam 4 cm above the notch. Stitch relieve edges of front part and gusset side edge, serge relieve seams and press them pressing gusset side edges.
7. Stitch the gusset to center lower back part, serge joining seam 4 cm above the notch. Stitch middle lower back part to center lower back part. Serge joining seam and press it pressing gusset side edges.
8. Stitch center upper back part to center lower back part, serge joining seam and press it downwards. Stitch the gusset to side back part, serge joining seam 4 cm above the notch. Stitch the gusset to middle back part to gusset side edge, serge relieve seams and press them pressing gusset side edges.
9. Stitch the gusset to side front part, serge joining seam 4 cm above the notch. Stitch dress/gusset side seams. Serge side seams of gusset. Press side seams pressing gusset side edges.
10. Stitch the gusset to right center back part. Serge right middle back edge and gusset side edge. Serge left middle back edge and gusset side edge. Stitch middle back seam and gusset’s left side edge up to closure notch. Press middle back seam apart, press gusset side edges and closure slits. Stitch the zipper into middle back seam.
11. Stitch dress shoulder edges and press them apart.
12. Lay the lining on the garment right sides together, then overstitch neckline edge. Under stitchfront/back lining. Adjust lining middle edge and dress middle edge and fix them together near the zipper.
13. Make the stitch with easy loops along shoulder cap between notches, at 0.5 cm (3/16") from edge. Pull sleeve edge as wished. Serge sleeve hems, fold them under and topstitch at 1.2 cm (1/2") distance. Cut elastic braid according to size and pull pieces into sleeve lower allowance. Stitch sleeve edge and serge it. Press joining seam.
14. Stitch sleeves into armholes according to notches.
15. Serge dress hem, fold it under and topstitch at 1 cm (3/8") from lower edge.
