Home / Women / Coats / #5019 Short Coat
Difficulty: ***
You will need: wool or wool blend fabric; lining fabrics; fusible interfacing; 4 buttons; shoulder pads.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting Pieces (coat fabric):
1. Collar – 2 pieces
2. Center Front – 2 pieces
3. Pocket Flap – 4 pieces
4. Center Back – 2 pieces
5. Side Back - 2 pieces
6. Side Front – 2 pieces
7. Back Neck Facing – 1 piece with fold
8. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
9. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
Lining:
10. Pocket Lining – 4 pieces
11. Center Front – 2 pieces with Front Facing area removed
12. Center Back - 2 pieces with Back Neck Facing area removed
13. Side Back - 2 pieces
14. Side Front – 2 pieces
15. Top Sleeve – 2 pieces
16. Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusible Interfacing: fuse interfacing to Front Facings, Collars, Back Neck Facing, half Pocket Flaps, and coat hem allowances.
Instructions:
1.Assemble flap pockets. Assemble Flaps: stitch two Pocket Flap pieces together. Turn and press the Flap. Topstitch 3 sides (except for raw edge) of Pocket Flap. Match raw edge of Flap with raw edge of Center Front at notches, face to face. On top of Flap, place one Pocket Lining. Baste all three pieces. Stitch together Flap, Pocket Lining and Center Front. This is your Front Unit (2 units total).
On top of Side Front place another Pocket Lining piece. Baste and stitch. Press. This is your Side Unit (2 units total). Stitch Front Unit to Side Unit (don’t stitch along the Pocket Flap). Turn Pocket Linings inside, match and trim lining pieces to fit each other. Stitch Pocket Linings together. Topstitch Flap onto Front at short ends, right on the seam of Flap topstitching.
2. Sew center back seam from neck down to the mark of back vent, press seam allowances towards the left Back.
3. Sew Side Back pieces to Center Back. Sew side and shoulder seams. Stitch together Front Facings and Back Neck Facing at shoulders.
4. Front Facings and Collar. Turn one-piece cut Front Facings to the wrong side, at top stitch the Front Facings onto neckline up to the notch. Clip neckline allowances at the notch. In the front corners, clip allowances diagonally. Turn out Front Facings to the wrong side. Assemble collar: place Collar pieces face-to-face, stitch along three sides, turn, and press. Sew one collar neckline edge to the coat neckline; another, to Back Neck Facing and Front Facings. Press open seam allowances. Baste seam allowances of Inner Collar and Back Neck Facing.
5. Hemming: Turn Front Facings to the wrong side, sew at hem. Turn hem allowances to the wrong side, sew. Turn Front Facings back.
6. Back vent: press to the wrong side left edge of the vent, sew to hem allowance. At the right side of the vent, press one-piece cut Vent Facing to the wrong side, sew it to hem allowance. Pin vent sides to match. Stitch on top of left Back to tack the vent, according to pattern marking.
7. Sew sleeve seams. Set sleeves into coat armholes, shirring at sleeve head.
8. Attach shoulder pads.
9. Sew together lining pieces. Sew lining to lower sleeve edges (at wrists), to inside Front Facing edges and Back Neck Facing. Carefully pin lining to coat around the back vent. Cut off extra lining around the vent, but don’t forget to add for seam allowances. Turn lining allowance inside and hand-stitch it around the vent. Hem the lining.
10. Make buttonholes into right Front, sew buttons to the left Front.