Home / Women / Coats / #5020 Short Coat with Slant Pockets In Front Seams
Difficulty: ***
You will need: woolen or wool-blend fabric for coat, lining fabric, fusible interfacing, 4 buttons, and shoulder pads.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Wool fabric:
1. Collar - 2 pieces
2. Center Front – 2 pieces
3. Center Back – 2 pieces
4. Side Back – 2 pieces
5. Side Front – 2 pieces
6. Back Neck Facing – 1 piece with fold
7. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
8. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
Lining:
9. Pocket Lining – 2 pieces
10. Center Front – 2 pieces with Front Facing area removed
11. Center Back – 2 pieces with Back Neck Facing removed
12. Side Back – 2 pieces
13. Side Front – 2 pieces
14. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
15. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusible interfacing: Fuse interfacing to wrong side of Front Facings, Back Neck Facing, lower halves of welts (pocket facings), hem allowances.
Instructions:
1. Pockets: place Pocket Linings face-to-face onto Fronts according to marking, stitch Pocket Linings along pocket entrance. Cut seam allowances in corners diagonally. Turn Pocket Linings inside. Topstitch edges of pocket entrance at 1.8 cm (3/4”). Sew Center Front to Side Front above pocket entrances, clipping seam allowance in corner of Center Front. Press front seam allowances towards Center Front. According to marking, place pocket entrance onto pocket linings at Side Fronts, pin. Sew together front and bottom edges of pocket linings. Baste side edges of pocket linings under Center Fronts. Topstitch Center Fronts at 1.8 cm (3/4”) along vertical front seams down to topstitching of pocket entrance.
2. Make center back seam (sew together two Center Backs) down to vent. Press seam open. Then press seam allowances towards left Center Back.
3. Sew vertical back seams, side and shoulder seams. Sew Front Facings to Back Neck Facing at shoulders.
4. Front Facings and Collar. Turn one-piece cut Front Facings to the wrong side, at top stitch the Front Facings onto neckline up to the notch. Clip neckline allowances at the notch. In the front corners, clip allowances diagonally. Turn out Front Facings to the wrong side. Assemble collar: place Collar pieces face-to-face, stitch along three sides, turn, and press. Sew one collar neckline edge to the coat neckline; another, to Back Neck Facing and Front Facings. Press open seam allowances. Baste seam allowances of Inner Collar and Back Neck Facing.
5. Hemming: Turn Front Facings to the wrong side, sew at hem. Turn hem allowances to the wrong side, sew. Turn Front Facings back.
6. Back vent: press to the wrong side left edge of the vent, sew to hem allowance. At the right side of the vent, press one-piece cut Vent Facing to the wrong side, sew it to hem allowance. Pin vent sides to match. Stitch on top of left Back to fix the vent, according to pattern marking.
7. Sew sleeve seams. Set sleeves into coat armholes, shirring at sleeve head.
8. Attach shoulder pads.
9. Sew together lining pieces. Sew lining to lower sleeve edges (at wrists), to inside Front Facing edges and Back Neck Facing. Carefully pin lining to coat around the back vent. Cut off extra lining around the vent, but don’t forget to add for seam allowances. Turn lining allowance inside and hand-stitch it to coat around the vent. Hem the lining.
10. Make buttonholes into right Front, sew buttons to the left Front.
