Home / Women / Coats / #5006 Long Coat
Difficulty: ***
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
You will need: Woolen or velour fabric for coat. To determine fabric consumption (length), lay out paper pieces at the width of the fabric you’re going to cut, then see what the length is. Lining, fusible interfacing (pellon), 4 small buttons, 8 large buttons, shoulder pads.
Cutting Pieces (coat fabric):
1. Lower Center Back - 2 pieces
2. Side Back 2 - 2 pieces
3. Side Back 1 - 2 pieces
4. Top Center Back - 1 piece with fold
5. Back Neck Facing - 1 piece with fold
6. Back Tab – 2 pieces (1 - Tab, 1- Tab Facing)
7. Pocket Flap – 4 pieces
8*. Pocket Lining – 4 pieces
9. Center Front – 2 pieces
10. Front Facing – 2 pieces
11. Side Front 2 – 2 pieces
12. Side Front 1 – 2 pieces
13. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
14. Back (Elbow) Sleeve – 2 pieces
Pieces of lining:
15*. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
16*. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
17*. Back – 1 piece with a fold
18*. Front - 2 pieces
Attention: Pieces marked with * should be cut out of lining only!
Interfacing: fuse interfacing to the following pieces: Front Facings, Back Neck Facing, lower half of Pocket Flap, lower half of Back Tab. Fuse interfacing to hem allowances.
Instructions:
1. Stitch together two Lower Center Back pieces. Press seam open. Matching the notches, make a pleat and baste it. Stitch the pleat along the top seam allowance, a bit higher than the marked seam line.
2. Assemble the Back Unit: attach Top Center Back to Lower Center Back. Attach Side Back pieces.
3. Assemble Back Tab: stitch Back Tab and Back Tab Facing together at three sides. Turn. Press. Tuck under raw edge. Topstitch the Back Tab at 0.5 cm (3/16"”) from edge. Sew buttons to Back, attaching the Back Tab to Back Unit at the same time. Note that the Tab should be placed so that it covers the seam of stitching Top Center Back to Lower Center Back.
4. Stitch 2 Pocket Flap pieces together. Turn and press the Flap. Topstitch 3 sides (except for raw edge) of Pocket Flap. Repeat with the other Flap. Match raw edge of Flap with raw edge of Side Front 2 at notches, face to face. On top of Flap, place one Pocket Lining. Baste all three pieces. Stitch together Flap, Pocket Lining and Side Front 2. This is your Front Unit (2 units total).
On top of Side Front 1 place another Pocket Lining piece. Baste and stitch. Press. This is your Side Unit (2 units total).
Stitch Front Unit to Side Unit (don’t stitch along the Pocket Flap). Turn Pocket Linings inside, match and trim lining pieces to fit each other. Stitch Pocket Linings together. Topstitch Flap onto Front at short ends, right on the seam of Flap topstitching.
5. Make shoulder seams (stitch Front & Side Unit to Back) and side seams (Front & Side Unit to Back Unit).
6. Sew together Front Facings (which are one-piece cut with Top Collar pieces) at center back. Sew Front Facings and Back Neck Facing at shoulder seams. Sew Lower Collar into coat neckline. Sew Top Collar into neckline of Back Neck Facing. Clip seam allowances. Press seams open.
7. Place Front Facings to Fronts face-to-face. Pin Front Facings to Fronts and Top Collar to Lower Collar. Sew all the way along Front Facing, Collar and another Front Facing. Clip seam allowances. Press seam open. Hand-stitch together seam allowances of Lower Collar and Back Neck Facing.
8. Hem the coat.
9. Sew Front Sleeve to Back (Elbow) Sleeve at elbow seam and front seam (two seams for each sleeve). Make sleeve vent. Set and sew sleeve into armhole, slightly gathering sleeve head (shoulder).
10. Hand-sew shoulder pads.
11. Make Lining Unit of Fronts, Back and Sleeve pieces. Stitch lining sleeves to coat sleeves at sleeve bottom (wrist). Attach lining to Front Facings and Back Neck Facing. Hem the lining.
12. Make buttonholes at right Front. Sew 8 buttons to left Front.