Home / Women / Coats / #5490 Leather coat with decorative belt
Difficulty: ***
You will need: artificial/nature leather; fusing; 1 separating; lining; 4 zippers for pocket.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting :
Fabric:
1. Back belt - 1 detail
2. Right front belt - 1 detail
3. Left front belt - 1 detail
4. Belt facing - 1 detail
5. Tie - 4 details
6. Belt loop - 1 detail
7. Center back part - 2 details
8. Side back part - 2 details
9. Side front part - 2 details
10. Center front part - 2 details
11. Upper pocket - 2 details
12. Lower pocket - 2 details
13. Front facing - 2 details
14. Upper sleeve - 2 details
15. Lower sleeve - 2 details
16. Cuff - 4 details
17. Back neckline facing - 1 detail
Lining:
1. Center back part - 2 details
2. Side back part - 2 details
3. Front part - 2 details
4. Upper sleeve - 2 details
5. Lower sleeve - 2 details
Fusing: front facing, back neckline facing, reinforcement stripe, belt facing.
Instructions:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front facing, back neckline facing, reinforcement stripe, belt facing.
2. Stitch front darts. Slash dart depth and press darts apart. Topstitch along darts. Stitch front princess seam edges and press them. Topstitches along princess seams.
3. Stitch back princess seam edges and press them. Topstitches along princess seams. Stitch middle back edge and press it. Topstitch along middle seam.
4. Mark upper pocket on front part. Press allowance of pocket upper edge into wrong side and make a double stitch along it. Cut the pocket along marked line. Lay the zipper under slit edges with zipper's teeth visible, them topstitch. Topstitch upper pocket on front part with a double stitch.
5. Mark lower pocket on front part. Reinforce pocket entrance with reinforcement stripe. Check pocket place and pocket entrance line. Cut pocket entrance. Make diagonal slits at 1-1.5 cm (3/8" - 5/8") from pocket ends. Turn pocket allowance wrong side out through this hole. Check pocket end on wrong side. Lay the zipper under pocket entrance edge with its teeth visible. Sew the zipper in. Topstitch lower pocket on front part along upper/inner/lower edges.
6. Fold the tie along the center right side out, fold long edges' allowances under and topstitch along tie contour at 0.2 cm (1/16") from edge. Do the same for belt loop stripe. Cut belt loops according to marks.
7. Stitch belt details together inserting tie according to marking. Lay belt facing on right front belt right sides together and overstitch them. Cut corner allowances and turn the belt right side out. Press upper allowance into wrong side and make decorative double stitch. Topstitch belt loops on the belt according to marks.
8. Lay front parts right sides together and adjust edges measuring edging lengths. Stitch the zipper to edging. Press edging under at closure segment.
9. Stitch shoulder/side edges and press them apart.
10. Stitch shoulder edges of front facing and facing and press them apart. Lay front facing on front part right sides together and overstitch along edging and back neckline (on front part side). Overstitch front part lower corner, cut corner allowances, slash at curve segments of seam. Turn front facings right side out and press seams. Topstitch along edging and neckline at 0.5 cm from edge.
11. Lay the belt on the garment according to marks. Topstitch the belt along side/middle seams and along edging decorative stitch.
12. Stitch sleeve front edge and press it apart. Stitch cuffs to sleeves, press allowances towards sleeves. Stitch elbow edges and press them apart. Press sleeve hems under. If you wish, you can topstitches at equal distance on cuffs.
13. Stitch sleeves into armholes according to notches.
14. Sew lining details together and sew sleeves in, leaving a hole into sleeve right front seam. Press lining allowances under. Stitch the lining to inner edges of front facing and back neckline facing.
15. Press garment hem under. Overstitch sleeve hems and garment hem with lining. Fix the lining to garment at waist seams. Turn the garment right side out through the hole in sleeve. Stitch sleeve hole edges together.
