Home / Women / Coats / #5343 Jean Coat
Difficulty: **
Recommended fabrics: Jean fabric.
You will need: jean fabric; fusible interfacing; 9 snaps; lining fabric.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Jean Fabric:
1. Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
2. Stand Collar – 2 pieces
3. Facing of Lower Pocket – 2 pieces
4. Lower Cargo Pocket – 2 pieces
5. Flap of Lower Pocket – 4 pieces
6. Facing of Upper Pocket – 1 piece
7. Upper Cargo Pocket – 1 piece
8. Flap of Upper Pocket – 2 pieces
9. Back Trim – 2 pieces
10. Front Trim – 4 pieces
11. Upper Back – 2 pieces
12. Center Back – 2 pieces
13. Side Back – 2 pieces
14. Side Front – 2 pieces
15. Upper Front – 2 pieces
16. Center Front – 2 pieces
17. Front Facing – 2 pieces
18. Epaulette - 4 pieces
19. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
20. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
Lining Fabric:
1. Center Back – 2 pieces
2. Upper Back – 2 pieces
3. Upper Front – 2 pieces
4. Side Back - 2 pieces
5. Side Front – 2 pieces
6. Center Front – 2 pieces
7. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
8. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusible Interfacing: Front Facings, Stand Collar (one piece), allowance for back vent, Flaps (one piece in each pair), Front and Back Trims.
Instructions:
1. Reinforce Front Facings, one Collar Stand and allowance of back vent, lower parts of Flaps, Front and Back Trims.
2. Line up Stand Collar pieces face-to-face and stitch around at side and outer edges (except neckline edge). Clip allowances at curves and in corners, turn out Stand Collar to the face side, press.
3. Sew Front Trim pieces to Back Trim at side seams. Press seams open. Line up two Trim pieces face-to-face and stitch together at one long and two short edges. Clip allowances at curved ends of Front Trim. Turn out Trim piece to the face side, press.
4. Sew darts of Upper Front and Upper Back. Press darts open. Sew princess seams of Side and Center Fronts. Press allowances open. Sew princess seams of Side and Center Backs. Press allowances open.
5. Line up every two pieces of Epaulettes face-to-face and stitch around, leaving an opening for turning out. Turn out the Epaulettes to the face side, press, folding inside allowances at the opening.
6. Sew side seams of Upper Fronts and Upper Backs. Press allowances open. Sew center back seam of Upper Front and Upper Backs. Press allowances open. Sew shoulder seams of Upper Fronts and Upper Backs. Press allowances open. Line up raw edges of Trim with bottom raw edge of Upper Fronts/Back, baste together along the waistline edge.
7. Sew center back seam of Center Back parts from waist down to notch for back vent. Press under 1 cm allowance at vertical edge of left back. Fold right back at center back line and press. Press open center back seam above the back vent. Topstitch right Center Back part diagonally at the top of back vent, fastening vent allowance at the same time.
8. Sew side seams of Side Back and Side Fronts. Press allowances open. Sew Upper Fronts/Back to Lower Fronts/Back. Remove basting threads of Front/Back Trim.
9. Sew elbow seam of Sleeve. Press allowances open.
10. Line up parts of Flap of Upper Pocket face-to-face and stitch together at three outer edges. Turn the Flap out through the open top edge, press and double-topstitch.
Assemble Flaps of Lower Pockets in a similar manner.
Mark placement of Upper Pocket at left Sleeve. Serge short ends of Pocket Facing. Sew long edge of Pocket Facing to sides and bottom edge of Upper Cargo Pocket; serge allowances. Turn under top edge of Upper Cargo Pocket twice, topstitch.
Make a fold at each side of Pocket Facing, put bartacks into topstitching at top of Pocket, to fix the folds. Apply Upper Cargo Pocket onto left Sleeve as per marking, baste and topstitch Pocket Facing to Sleeve.
Apply Flap onto Sleeve with raw edge facing Pocket entrance, topstitch.
Turn the Flap downwards and topstitch again to conceal raw edges.
Assemble Lower Cargo Pockets in a similar manner. Stitch Lower Pockets and Flaps onto Fronts.
11. Sew front seam of Sleeve, press allowances open. Turn under bottom allowances of Sleeve, topstitch.
12. Line up Front Facing with Front face-to-face, pin or baste and stitch together along the front edge and lapel, up to the notch for Stand Collar. Sew bottom edge of Front Facing to Front exactly at the hemline. Clip allowances in top and bottom corners. Turn Front Facings to the wrong side, press and double-topstitch front edges.
Sew Back Neckline Facing to Front Facings at shoulders, press allowances open.
13. Sew outer Stand Collar into neckline of coat; inner Stand Collar, into neckline of Facings.
14. Place Epaulette onto shoulder, lining up its raw edge with armhole, baste together at armhole allowance. Sew Sleeve into armhole, matching the notches. Remove basting threads.
15. Assemble lining pieces similar to shell, leaving an opening in the right front sleeve seam. Press seams of lining. Apply lining to shell face-to-face, and stitch lining to the inside edges of Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing. Press open neckline/stand seams allowances. Staystitch neckline allowances together, from the inside of garment, to prevent collar from distorting.
16. Sew together bottoms of sleeves of lining and shell. Press bulk of lining fabric, that forms at the bottom of sleeves, as a small horizontal fold.
Turn the coat to the face side. Pin lining to shell side seams. Carefully cut the lining along back vent, giving 1 cm allowance for turning under.
Make diagonal cuts in top corners of lining around back vent.
Turn under top and vertical allowances of lining around back vent, pin to shell.
Shove your hand inside the coat, between shell and lining, pick up raw edges (pinned) and pull outside the coat to stitch them together. Stitch the long edges of lining and shell along back vent together, release the edges back inside the coat. (You can hand-sew with invisible seam lining to shell around back vent instead). Turn under and hand-sew short top edge of lining to top of vent allowance.
17. Install snaps as per pattern markings: at each Flap and Cargo Pocket. At right Front (tops) and left Front (bottoms).