Home / Women / Coats / #5319 Empire waistline coat
Difficulty: ***
Recommended fabrics: wool or semi-wool.
You will need: fusible interfacing; 1 button; lining.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Fabric:
1. Upper center back part – 2 details
2. Lower center back part – 2 details
3. Upper side back part – 2 details
4. Lower side back part – 2 details
5. Inner collar – 1 detail
6. Outer collar – 1 detail
7. Upper side front part – 2 details
8. Lower side front part – 2 details
9. Upper center front part – 2 details
10. Lower center front part – 2 details
11. Front facing – 2 details
12. Flap – 4 details
13. Sleeve – 2 details
Lining:
1. Center back part – 1 detail
2. Side back part - 2 details
3. Side front part – 2 details
4. Center front part – 2 details
5. Bag – 4 details
6. Sleeve – 2 details
Fusible interfacing: front facing, inner collar, upper center front part, upper side front part armhole, upper center back part, upper side back part armhole, pocket strengthener; hem allowances: lower center front part, sleeve, lower side back part, lower center back part.
Instructions:
1. Reinforce the front facing, inner collar, upper center front part, upper side front part armhole, upper center back part, upper side back part armhole, pocket strengthener; hem allowances: lower center front part, sleeve, lower side back part, lower center back part with fusible interfacing.
2. Overstitch inner collar with outer one (right sides together). Cut, then turn the collar right side out.
3. Fold the flap and under-flap right sides together, then trim the corners and overstitch. Cut pocket corners seam allowances, then turn right side out Overtack the flap, then press it on under-flap side, creating the edging of 0.2-0.1 cm (1/16") on the flap side.
4. Sew upper center front part to lower center front part. Sew upper side front part to lower side front part. Press seams downward and topstitch on 0.5 cm (3/16") from joining seam.
5. Sew front princess seams and press them into front part center. Topstitchon 0.5 cm from joining seam.
6. Tack or fix pocket entrance with the pocket strengthener. Fold pocket facing wrong side inside, then press. Mark auxiliary line on pocket facing, along facing folding, for topstitching the facing. Mark auxiliary line on the flap (for flap topstitching) along flap upper edge, measuring flap width along all the length. Mark auxiliary line parallel to pocket entrance, for sewing the flap and pocket facing. Sew the bag to the flap. Sew flap with the Hessian) to lower side front side. Sew the facing lower center front part. Finish stitch ends near parallel marking of pockets. Check facing and the flap topstitching on the wrong side (stitched should be parallel). Cut pocket entrance. Make diagonal cuts on 1-1.5 cm (3/8" - 5/8") from pocket end. Through these holes, turn into wrong side the facing and flap joining seam, trim edges. Fit facing end so that facing pressed folding was accurately to flap joining seam. Fix pocket ends on the wrong side with double inverse stitch on corner bases. Sew the bag.
7. Pin the front facing and front part right sides together, then overstitch along the marked line. Overstitch on the front part upwards the notch defining the end of collar sewing into. Sew front facings lower edges to front part strictly along marked hemline. Cut upper and lower seams corners. Topstitch on 0.5 cm from the edge overstitching seam.
8. Sew upper side back part to lower side back part. Sew upper center back part to lower center back part. Press the seams under, then topstitch along joining seam on 0.5 cm from the edge.
9. Sew back princess seams, press toward the back part center and then topstitch along joining seam on 0.5 cm from the edge.
10. Sew shoulder and side seams, then press apart.
11. Sew inner collar to the neckline, then sew outer collar to front facings.
12. Sew the sleeves into the armholes according to notches. Sew shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
13. Sew lining to inner edges of front facings and outer collar. Press collar joining seams allowance apart, then fix near seams. Sew the lining to fabric coat hem. Turn the coat right side out through the hole in the sleeve, then sew the hole.
14. Work buttonholes into right front part, then sew buttons to left one.