Home / Women / Coats / #5069 Double-Breasted Coat With One-Piece Sleeve
Difficulty: ***
You will need: fabric for coat (wool, wool blend, velour), lining fabric, fusible interfacing, shoulder pads, 6 buttons.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Coat Fabric:
1. Back - 2 pieces
2. Back Neck Facing – 1 piece with fold
3. Front Facing - 2 pieces
4. Pocket - 2 pieces
5. Front - 2 pieces
6. Collar - 2 pieces
7. Pocket Flap - 4 pieces
8. Belt - 1 piece
9. Lower Sleeve Tab - 4 pieces
10. Upper Sleeve Tab - 4 pieces
11. Sleeve - 2 pieces
Lining:
12. Back - 2 pieces
13. Front - 2 pieces
14. Sleeve - 2 pieces
Fusible Interfacing: using very hot iron, fuse interfacing to the wrong side of to Front Facings, Back Neck Facing, lower Collar piece, Pocket Flaps, and hem allowances.
Instructions:
1. Assemble Flaps: place 2 pieces of Flaps face-to-face, sew around three outer edges, turn out, press and topstitch at 0.5 cm (3/16“).
2. Turn to the wrong side allowance at top edge of the Pocket, press. Turn under the raw edge of allowance and press again. Edgestitch.
3. Turn under and press other raw edges of Pocket. Place Pocket onto Front according to marking, topstitch at 2 mm (1/16").
4. Place Flap (with raw edge directed down) onto Front, pin and sew on. Turn the Flap down, press. Topstitch the Flap to cover raw edge.
5. Stitch center back seam from neckline to back vent opening. Press seam allowances towards left Back piece, topstitch the left Back along center back at 2 mm (very close to the seam).
6. Sew side and shoulder seams.
7. Assemble Sleeve Tabs: place Sleeve Tab pieces face-to-face, stitch together, leaving open at one side (the slanted side which goes into the sleeve seam). Turn out Tabs, press and topstitch at 2 mm. Place Sleeve Tabs onto Sleeve and baste them between the markings. Raw edge of each Tab must be aligned with raw edge of the Sleeve.
8. Sew sleeve seams, sewing in the Tabs. Press seam allowances open.
9. Sew lower Collar into coat neckline. Sew together Front Facings and Back Neck Facing at shoulders. Sew upper Collar into neckline of Front Facings and Back Neck Facing. Press seams open, clip allowances where curved.
10. Place upper Collar (along with Front Facings) onto coat face-to-face, pin and sew together at front edges and collar outer edge. Turn out and press. Hand-stitch allowance of upper Collar to neckline to prevent Collar from rolling. Baste Front and Front Facing together along the front edge.
11. At hem, place Front Facing onto Front face-to-face, and sew. Turn Front Facings out, press at hem. Topstitch front edges and outer collar edge of the coat at 1 cm (3/8”).
12. Sew sleeves into armholes. Topstitch the coat at armhole seams at 2 mm. Attach shoulder pads.
13. Back vent. Turn under left edge of the back vent, press and sew to hem allowance. Turn under and press the vent facing at right Back, sew to hem allowance. Pin the back vent to match. Sew hem of the coat. Topstitch diagonally at left Back to fix the vent.
14. Sew together lining pieces. Sew lining to Sleeves hem, inside edges of Front Facings and Back Neck Facing.
15. Carefully pin lining to Back around back vent. At the wrong side, cut out the lining around the vent adding 1/2” for allowances. Turn under allowances, pin and hand-sew lining to the vent.
16. Assemble Belt: fold Belt lengthwise face-to-face, stitch along and at one short end. Turn out, press. Turn under raw edges at short end and topstitch all around the perimeter at 0.5 cm (3/16”).
17. Make 2 buttonholes into right Front, make one buttonhole at top of left Front for the inside button. Sew buttons to attach the Sleeve Tabs. Sew the rest buttons accordingly.