Home / Women / Coats / #5156 Double-Breasted Coat with a Half-Raglan Sleeve
Difficulty: ***
You will need: Fabric for coat (wool blend); lining fabric; fusible interfacing; raglan shoulder pads; 9 buttons.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Coat Fabric:
1. Back - 2 pieces
2. Front - 2 pieces
3. Back Sleeve - 2 pieces
4. Front Sleeve - 2 pieces
5. Front Facing - 2 pieces
6. Upper Collar – 1 piece
7. Lower Collar – 1 piece
8. Back Neck Facing - 1 piece with fold
9. Pocket Welt - 2 pieces
10. Pocket Facing - 2 pieces
11. Belt - 1 piece
12. Sleeve Tab – 4 pieces
Lining Fabric:
13. Back - 2 pieces
14. Front - 2 pieces
15. Back Sleeve - 2 pieces
16. Front Sleeve - 2 pieces
17. Pocket Lining - 4 pieces
Fusible Interfacing: Cut out and fuse interfacing to wrong side of the following pieces: Front Facings, Back Neck Facing, Collar, Pocket Welts, Sleeve Tabs, back vent allowance, hem allowances.
Instructions:
1. Assemble Pockets with Welts at Fronts.
Assemble Welts: fold Welt lengthwise face side inside, pin and sew Welt at short sides, turn out and press. Topstitch Welt very close (2 mm (1/16")) to the fold (at one long side). At the wrong side of Front, fuse a stripe of interfacing about 4 cm (1-5/8") wide.
Turn under one long edge of Pocket Facing; place Pocket Facing onto upper Pocket Lining piece and topstitch at the turned edge.
Place Pocket Welt and upper Pocket Lining onto Front, face-to-face, matching raw edges of Welt and Lining with the line of pocket cut, pin along pocket entrance and stitch. Cut pocket entrance, in corners cut diagonally. Don’t cut through the Welt and Lining. Press seam allowances open. Turn Welt and Lining to inside and baste. At the wrong side, place lower Pocket Lining upward, onto Welt. From the face side, topstitch the seam of attaching the Welt, picking up Pocket Lining. Turn and press the Lining downward.
Turn to the inside the small triangles at the ends of pocket entrance, and stitch them onto Linings between the two seams of pocket entrance. Trim Pocket Linings to fit each other, and sew them around to each other. At the face side, topstitch Pocket Welt at the short sides onto Front.
2. Sew center back seam down to the back vent. Press seam allowances (including back vent allowances) towards left side seam. Sew vertical seams of Front and Back, press open.
3. Sew Front Sleeve pieces to Front pieces; Back Sleeve pieces to Back. Press seam allowances towards the sleeve pieces.
4. Assemble Sleeve Tabs: place two Sleeve Tab pieces face-to-face, pin and sew around at the oval-shaped edges. Turn out, press and topstitch.
5. Sew upper sleeve seams (Front Sleeve to Back Sleeve), inserting Sleeve Tabs according to the markings. Sew lower sleeve seams and side seams at one go.
6. Sew Lower Collar piece into coat neckline. Sew Front Facings to Back Neck Facing at shoulders. Sew Upper Collar piece into neckline of Front Facings/Back Neck Facing. Press seam allowances open, clip rounded edges of seam allowances.
7. Place Upper Collar with Front Facings/Back Neck Facing onto the coat, face-to-face, and sew around at center front edges and outer collar edge. Turn out and press. Hand-sew together seam allowances of collars at neckline, to prevent collar from rolling. Baste front edges of coat and outer collar edge.
8. Hemming. Turn out the Front Facings and place them onto Fronts face-to-face. Turn under hem allowances and sew. Turn Front Facings back.
9. Attach (either stitch to seam allowances or hand-sew) shoulder pads.
10. Sew together lining pieces. Hem lining so that it is 2 cm (3/4”) shorter than coat.
Place lining onto coat face-to-face and sew to the inside edges of Front Facings and Back Neck Facing, turning out hem allowances where necessary. Turn out the coat to the face side. Pin lining to coat at side seams. Cut out the lining around back vent, allowing 1 cm (3/8”) to turn under. At top of back vent, make 1 cm (3/8") slanted cuts at both sides (like this: Y). Turn under raw edges of lining and pin to the back vent.
Put your hand between the coat and lining, pick the pinned edges and pull them (one at a time) to the outside. Sew the edges of lining and vent together, turn back to the inside. Turn under the lining at the top edge of back vent and hand-sew it to the coat.
Topstitch back vent diagonally at face side of Back.
11. Sew lining to coat at hem and sleeve bottoms.
12. Make buttonholes at the right Front, sew buttons to the left Front.
13. Topstitch the coat at front edges, collar, hem and sleeve bottoms.
14. Assemble the Belt: fold the Belt lengthwise face side inside, and sew at one long and one short side. Turn out and press. Turn under the raw edges, press. Topstitch the Belt all around the edges at 0.5 cm (3/16”).