Home / Women / Coats / #5439 Denim coat
Difficulty: ***
You will need: denim, fusing, 3 buttons.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Fabric:
1. Belt loop - 1 detail
2. Center back part - 2 details
3. Side back part - 2 details
4. Inner collar - 1 detail
5. Outer collar - 1 detail
6. Side front part - 2 details
7. Center front part - 1 detail
8. Front facing - 2 details
9. Pocket detail - 2 details
10. Pocket bag - 4 details
11. Upper sleeve - 2 details
12. Lower sleeve - 2 details
Fusing: front facing, pocket detail, pocket detail, front part, garment hem, sleeve hems.
Instructions:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front facing, pocket detail, pocket strengthener, front part, garment hem, sleeve hems.
2. Serge back middle seam, side edges of side front part and side back part, relieve edges of center front/center back parts, front/back shoulder edges.
3. Sew front/back relieve seams, then press them apart.
4. Fold pocket detail along the center, right side inside, and press. Serge corners, cut extra fabric in corners, and turn pocket detail right side out. Press the detail.
5. Fold outer collar and inner collar together, then overstitch. Turn the collar right side out, and press it.
6. Mark pocket detail with line of joining to front part, measuring the width. Mark pocket place on front part. Lay pocket detail its wrong side (and ready edge down) on right side of pocket lining's one part, coinciding edges, with lining edges beyond pocket detail at same width. Lay pocket detail on front part and coincide marking of front part and pocket detail. Sew pocket detail to front part (pocket detail of between front part and pocket lining). Turn the seam joining pocket detail and lining towards pocket detail. Lay the rest of lining on front part, right sides together, to seam joining pocket detail. Tack and stitch it at 0.8-1 cm (3/8") from seam joining pocket detail. Stitches must be parallel to each other. Remove tacking. Cut pocket entrance. Make diagonal notches at 1-1.5 cm (3/8" - 5/8") from pocket end. Turn pocket detail and pocket bag into wrong side through this slit. Fix pocket ends on wrong side with reverse double stitch along basing of corners. Sew pocket bag and serge it. Tack pocket detail to front part and press it. Topstitch pocket detail's ends. Remove tacking.
7. Press edge of lower vent at 1 cm (3/8") and topstitch on back central part. Sew back middle edge. Press back middle seam apart stopping 5 cm (2") before the vent. Press the vent towards back center. Topstitch back middle seam diagonally close to vent top, along marking, catching vent allowance.
8. Sew shoulder/side seams, and press them apart.
9. Serge inner edge of front facing. Pin front facing and front part right sides together, and overstitch along edging (on front part side, sewing the collar in). Topstitch edging facing allowance as following: at closure - on front facing, at lapels - on front part edging (topstitch it at 0.2 cm (1/16") from seams). Turn lapels right side out. Serge seam joining the collar and topstitch.
10. Sew sleeve elbow seam and vent corners at sleeve upper/lower parts. Press elbow seam apart, make a notch and press the vent.
11. Sew sleeve front seam and press it apart.
12. Sew sleeves into armholes coinciding notches, serge joining seam.
13. Serge garment hem and sleeve hems, then press hems over along hemline and sew.
14. Make a buttonhole into front right edge, sew the button on left one. Sew the button on sleeve vent.
15. Fold belt loop along the center, right side inside, coincide edges and overstitch at 0.5-0.7 cm (1/4") from edges. Turn right side out, place the seam at bend or make edging of 0.1-0.2 cm (1/16") to wrong side, then press. Cut belt loops and topstitch on side seams.