Home / Women / Coats / #5109 Coat with Patch Pockets
Difficulty: ***
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
You will need: coat fabric (wool, wool blend, velour, boucle); lining fabric; fusible interfacing, 5 magnetic snap-buttons, shoulder pads.
Cutting:
Coat Fabric:
1. Back - 2 pieces
2. Front - 2 pieces
3. Sleeve - 2 pieces
4. Hood - 2 pieces
5. Belt - 1 piece
6. Pocket - 2 pieces
Lining Fabric:
7. Back - 2 pieces
8. Front - 2 pieces
9. Sleeve - 2 pieces
Fusible Interfacing: using hot iron, fuse interfacing to wrong side of Front Facings and Pockets, as well as to hem allowances.
Instructions:
1. Patch Pockets. Fold one-piece cut pocket facing at top (see the notches), face-to-face with the pocket, and stitch at short sides. Turn out, press. Turn under the rest seam allowances all around the Patch Pocket, press. Topstitch the Patch Pocket along the pocket facing. Place Pocket onto Front according to markings, pin and topstitch very close to the edge of pocket (2 mm (1/16").
2. Sew center back seam, press allowances open.
3. Sew shoulder and side seams.
4. Sew together hood pieces, press seam allowances open. Turn under raw edge of hood and sew. Place hood neckline into coat neckline and baste.
5. Set magnetic snap-buttons into Front Facings, placing small pieces of fabric under each snap-button.
Turn out one-piece cut Front Facings, face-to-face with coat Fronts, and sew at neckline, sewing the hood in at the same time.
Sew hood into neckline of Back.
Sew Front Facings to Fronts at hem: turn out Front Facings, face-to-face with Fronts, and stitch at hem. Then turn out bottom corners of Fronts, press.
6. Sew sleeve seams. Serge seam allowances separately and press them open.
Turn under and press sleeve hem allowance.
7. Make a shirring of sleeve head between the notches, pull the shirring to match length of sleeve to the length of armhole. Spray the sleeve head with water, press shirring with a point of hot iron (to soften the shirring folds). Pin the sleeve into armhole, matching at notches, and sew it in, stitching at the Sleeve side.
8. Sew shoulder pads.
9. Sew together pieces of lining. Sew lining to inside edges of Front Facings. Hand-sew lining to hood at neckline and shoulder edges of Front Facings. Sew the lining to sleeves hem allowances. Hem the lining at bottom.
10. Hem the coat.
11. Assemble the Belt: fold the Belt piece lengthwise, face sides inside, stitch at one short and one long side. Turn out and press. Turn under the raw short edge of Belt, baste. Topstitch the Belt all around at 1.0 cm (3/8”). Topstitch the Belt to one of the side seams.