Home / Women / Coats / #5308 Coat with leather details
Difficulty: ***
Recommended fabrics: wool or semi-wool; artificial leather.
You will need: fusible interfacing; 3 buttons; lining.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Fabric:
1. Upper center back part – 2 details
2. Lower center back part – 2 details
3. Upper side back part – 2 details
4. Lower side back part – 2 details
5. Inner collar – 1 detail
6. Outer collar – 1 detail
7. Upper side front part – 2 details
8. Lower side front part – 2 details
9. Upper center front part – 2 details
10. Lower center front part – 2 details
11. Slit pocket detail – 2 details
12. Front facing – 2 details
13. Upper sleeve – 2 details
14. Lower sleeve – 2 details
Lining:
1. Center back part – 1 detail2. Side back part - 2 details
3. Side front part – 2 details
4. Center front part – 2 details
5. Bag – 4 details
6. Upper sleeve – 2 details
7. Lower sleeve – 2 details
Fusible interfacing: front facing, upper center front part, lower center front part, upper center back part wit armhole piece, vent piece, side back armhole, sleeve vent, inner collar, slit pocket detail; hem allowance: side back part, back part, lower sleeve, lower side front part, upper sleeve.
Instructions:
1. Strengthen the upper center front part, lower center front part, upper center back part wit armhole piece, vent piece, side back armhole, sleeve vent, inner collar, slit pocket detail; hem allowance: side back part, back part, lower sleeve, lower side front part, upper sleeve with vent piece with fusible interfacing.
2. Overstitch inner collar with outer one (right sides together). Cut, then turn the collar right side out.
3. Fold the slit pocket detail along the centre, wrong side inside, then press. Sew the slit pocket detail to upper edge of front lower part (between marks).
4. Sew the bag to right side of upper side front part and lower side front part according to notches, right sides together. Turn the seam over and topstitch on the bag. Topstitch pocket detail sides along both edges on the upper front part. Sew bags together.
5. Sew upper center front part to lower center front part. Press seams apart.
6. Pin the front facing and front part right sides together, then overstitch along the marked line. Overstitch on the front part upwards the notch defining the end of collar sewing into. Sew front facings edges to front part strictly along marked hemline. Cut upper and lower seams corners. Overstitch the front facing work seam allowance: at zipper area – into the front facing, on lapels area – into the front part edge, on 0.2 cm (1/16") width from the seam. Turn the edges into right sides, fit seams.
7. Tack relief edges between the hem and the waistline. Sew princess seams of front part and press them apart.
8. Sew upper side back part to lower side back part, then sew upper center back part to lower center back part. Press joining seams apart.
9. Sew princess seams of back part. Oversew princess seams edges between the hem and the waistline, then press apart.
10. Sew back part edge. Press on 1 cm (3/8") the lower vent edge. Press back center seam and the vent toward back part center. Topstitch back center seam on vent top according to diagonal marking, catching the vent allowance.
11. Oversew the side seams between the hem and the waistline. Sew shoulder and side seams, then pres them apart.
12. Sew elbow seam and vent corners into lower and upper sleeves. Press the elbow seam apart, make a notch and press the vent.
13. Sew sleeve front seam and press it apart. Press sleeve hem.
14. Sew the inner collar to the neckline.
15. Sew the sleeves into the armholes according to notches. Sew shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
16. Sew lining details seams, then sew sleeves into armholes. Tack lining seams between the hem and the waistline, then press. Sew the lining to front facing inner edges and outer collar. Press collar joining seam allowance and sew it near seams.
17. Turn under lining sleeves and sew them to sleeve hem; turn the extra lining under and press it. Turn the coat right side out. Pin side seams of lining with fabric ones, then cut preciously along edge vent, 1 cm from the center seam. On 1 cm (3/8") below the vent top, make diagonal slits of 1 cm in both sides. Turn the slits into and pin with vent edges. Between fabric and lining, pull pinned edges outside by one. Sew edges and turn the hem allowance under. Fit vent edges. Turn vent top lining corner and sew it to vent allowance. Turn the hem allowance under so that lining is 1 cm shorter than the fabric coat.
18. Work the buttonholes into right front part, sew buttons to left one. Mark and sew buttons to sleeve vents.
19. Tack the hem. Then Press the hem allowance into wrong side and sew by hand.