Home / Women / Coats / #5478 Coat with half-belts
Difficulty: ***
You will need: fabric suitable for cloaks, fusing, 1 separating zipper, 7 clasps, eyelets, lining, 2 zippers for pocket, shoulder pads.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting :
Facing:
1. Placket for zipper - 2 details
2. Stand-up collar - 2 details
3. Center back part - 2 details
4. Side back part - 2 details
5. Side front part - 2 details
6. Center front part - 2 details
7. Front facing - 2 details
8. Patch pocket - 2 details
9. Upper pocket facing - 2 details
10. Upper pocket big lining - 1 detail
11. Off-set welt - 4 details
12. Belt loop - 1 detail
13. Upper sleeve - 2 details
14. Lower sleeve - 2 details
15. Belt - 4 details
16. Collar half-belt - 1 detail
17. Belt loop for clasp - 6 details
18. Sleeve half-belt - 2 details
19. Back neckline facing - 1 detail
Lining:
1. Upper pocket small lining - 1 detail
2. Center back part - 2 details
3. Side back part - 2 details
4. Center front part - 2 details
5. Side front part - 2 details
6. Upper sleeve - 2 details
7. Lower sleeve - 2 details
8. Patch pocket lining - 2 details
Fusing: front facing, center front part, stand-up collar, off-set welt, placket, reinforcement stripe.
Instructions:
1. Apply the fusing to front facing, center front part, stand-up collar, off-set welt, placket, reinforcement stripe.
2. Sew front darts. Slash dart depths and press darts apart. Topstitch along dart at 0.5 cm (3/16") distance. Sew front relieve seams and press them. Topstitch along relieve seam at 0.5 cm distance.
3. Sew back darts. Press them toward center and topstitch along darts at 0.5 cm distance. Sew back relieve edges and press them. Topstitch along relieve seams at 0.5 cm distance. Sew back middle edge and press it. Topstitch at 0.5 cm from middle seam.
4. Mark upper pocket place at front part. Reinforce pocket entrance with reinforcement stripe. Check place of upper pocket on front part. Press pocket facings along the center, right side out. Mark auxiliary line at pocket facings, parallel to facing bend, to stitch it. Mark auxiliary lines parallel to pocket entrance to stitch pocket facings. Sew facings to front part. Finish stitching at pocket marking parallel lines. Check whether facings are stitch correctly (on wrong side: stitches must be parallel). Cut pocket entrance. Make diagonal slits at 1-1.5 cm (3/8" - 5/8") from pocket ends. Turn facings right side out through this hole, check facing ends. Fix pocket ends on wrong side with reverse double stitch along corner base. Lay the zipper under pocket entrance edge with its teeth visible. Sew the zipper in and sew pocket lining to facing allowance. Sew pocket lining and serge.
5. Lay off-set welt details right sides together and overstitch off-set welt upper edge. Press off-set welt. Mark welt place on front part. Mark line of stitching the welt to pocket, measuring the width. Tack the welt on the pocket coinciding marked lines. Lay pocket details and pocket lining and welt, and stitch. Check whether pocket and welt are correctly stitches (on wrong side: stitches must be parallel, distance between them equal to ready off-set welt). Remove tacking. Cut pocket entrance. Make diagonal slits at 1-1.5 cm from pocket ends (do not cut off-set welt!). Turn pocket lining and welt wrong side out through this hole. Fix pocket ends on wrong side with reverse double stitch along corner bases. Press upper/lower pockets edges according to pattern, allowances inside. Topstitch the pocket on front part.
6. Fold half-belt along the center, wrong side out. Overstitch collar half-belt along three edges leaving small hole for turning our. Turn half-belt right side out and press it. Topstitch along half-belt contour at 0.2 cm (1/16") from edge. Set the clasp on the half-belt. Fold half-belt end into wrong side to make a loop, and topstitch. Make eyelets into half-belt. Do the same for clasp half-belt, sleeve half-belt and waistband half-belt.
7. Fold belt loop along the center, wrong side out, make edges equal and overstitch at 0.5-0.7 cm (1/4") from edges. Then turn it right side out and check the seam placing it on bend or make edging of 0.1-0.2 cm (1/16") width into wrong side, and press. Cut belt loops according to marking.
8. Stitch waistband to side front part allowance according to notches. Stitch half-belts with clasps to center front part and to front sleeve, then turn out and topstitch. Stitch sleeve half-belt to sleeve elbow edge allowance
.9. Stitch shoulder/side edges and press them apart. Stitch the stand-up into front/back necklines. Fold the placket along the center, wrong side out, and overstitch upper/lower corners. Slash corners and turn the placket right side out. Stitch the zipper to placket (please note: right placket is outer on, left placket in inner one).
10. Stitch shoulder edges of front facing and facing and press seams apart. Stitch lining details and sew sleeves into armholes leaving a hole into sleeve right front seam. Press lining allowance under. Stitch the lining to front facing inner edges and to stand-up collar.
11. Lay ready plackets to front parts. Check details on right front part: front part detail, placket, zipper; on left front part: front part detail, zipper, placket (see technical sketch). Stitch the placket to front part. Lay front facing on front part and overstitch lower corner edging and collar upper edge with one stitch. Slash corners, turn them right side out and press. Topstitch belt loops on stand-up according to marking. Remove pins. Press allowances of seam joining the stand-up apart and fix close to seams.
12. Stitch sleeve elbow edge and press it apart. Stitch sleeve front edge and pres it apart. Press sleeve hems under.
13. Stitch sleeves into armholes according to notches. Stitch shoulder pads in.
14. Press garment hem into wrong side. Overstitch garment hem and sleeve hems with lining. Fix lining to garment at waistline seams. Turn the garment right side out through sleeve hole. Stitch hole edges together.