Home / Women / Coats / #5106 Coat with Concealed Closure
Difficulty: ***
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
You will need: light (not heavy) coat fabric, lining, fusible interfacing, 4 buttons, shoulder pads.
Cutting:
Coat fabric:
1. Center Front - 2 pieces
2. Side Front - 2 pieces
3. Back - 2 pieces
4. Front Sleeve - 2 pieces
5. Back Sleeve - 2 pieces
6. Front Facing - 2 pieces
7. Back Neck Facing - 1 piece with fold
8. Collar - 2 pieces with folds
9. Pocket Lining - 2 pieces
Lining Fabric:
Center Front, with Front Facing area removed-2 pieces;
Back – with Back Neck Facing area removed-2 pieces;
Side Front-2 pieces;
Front Sleeve-2 pieces;
Back Sleeve-2 pieces;
Pocket Lining - 2 pieces
Fusible Interfacing: fuse interfacing with hot iron to wrong side of Front Facings, Back Neck Facing, Collar.
Instructions:
1. Sew vertical front seams, leaving open areas of in-seam pockets. Press seam allowances open. Pin Pocket Lining of coat fabric to pocket entrance allowance of Side Front piece, sew along the pocket opening. Pin Pocket Lining of lining fabric to pocket entrance allowance of Center Front, sew along the opening, making the stitching not the same way as with previous lining, but at half width of seam allowance. Press Pocket Linings towards Center Front, trim to fit each other and sew together all around.
2. Sew center back seam, side and shoulder seams.
3. Sew right Front Facing to hem edge (starting 5 cm (2”) from the Front Facing edge) and to front edge of right Front up to the corner (notch). Baste Front Facing to Front at fold line up to the neckline. Lay flat and press right Front and right Front Facing.
Make buttonholes for concealed closure. Place narrow facing of Front onto facing with buttonholes, stitch together bottom edges. Baste the facings to Front Facing. Remove basting stitches along center front.
4. Sew left Front Facing to hem (starting 5 cm (2”) from the Front Facing edge) and to front edge of left Front up to the neckline. Cut off narrow facings to the finished width of a seam allowance.
5. Sew Back Neck Facing to Front Facings.
6. Assemble Collar: place pieces of Collar face-to-face, sew around outer edge, turn out, press. Taking two raw edges of Collar together, baste them into neckline from one front edge to another. Sew Front Facings and Back Neck Facing to neckline on top of Collar seam. Trim and clip seam allowances. Turn Front Facings and Back Neck Facing outside. Turn under hem allowance and press, but do not sew for now. Press center front edges of coat. Hand-sew (with just a few stitches) the facing with buttonholes to front edge of right Front between the buttonholes.
7. Sew seams of sleeves. Turn under and press sleeve hem allowances, but don’t sew for now.
8. Set sleeves into armholes, shirring sleeve heads. Hand-sew a stripe of thick warmer interfacing to sleeve head about 4 cm (1-5/8”) long. Sew shoulder pads.
9. Sew together pieces of lining. Sew lining to hem of sleeves, inside edges of Front Facings and Back Neck Facing. Hem the lining.