Home / Women / Coats / #5477 Coat with asymmetrical closure
Difficulty: ***
You will need: denim, fusing, 1 separating zipper, lining, 3 zippers for pockets.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Fabric:
1. Placket - 1 detail
2. Center back part - 2 details
3. Side part - 2 details
4. Right front part - 1 detail
5. Left front part - 1 detail
6. Right front facing - 1 detail
7. Left front part - 1 detail
8. Back neckline facing - 1 detail
9. Hood facing - 2 details
10. Hood - 2 details
11. Sleeve - 2 details
Lining:
1. Center back part - 2 details
2. Side part - 2 details
3. Right front part - 1 detail
4. Left front part - 1 detail
5. Side pocket lining - 4 details
6. Front pocket lining - 2 details
7. Hood - 2 details
8. Sleeve - 2 details
Fusing: left/right front facings, back neckline facing, reinforcement stripe, hood facing, placket.
Instructions:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of left/right front facings, back neckline facing, reinforcement stripe, hood facing, placket.
2. Sew front relieve seams, leaving pocket entrance unstitched. Press relieve seams apart. Lay the zipper under slit with its teeth visible, then stitch in. Sew side pocket pocket bags to zipper braids. Sew pocket bags together.
3. Mark pocket place on front part. Reinforce pocket entrance with reinforcement stripe. Check pocket place and pocket entrance line. Cut pocket entrance. Make diagonal slits at 1-1.5 cm (3/8" -5/8") from pocket end. Turn pocket allowances right side out through this hole. Check pocket end from wrong side. Sew the zipper under pocket entrance with its teeth visible. Sew lining details to zipper braids. Sew lining together.
4. Sew fabric hood and lining hood. Sew hood facings together, sew hood lining to them. Lay facing on hood right sides together, them overstitch. Cut seams and turn the hood right side out. Make decorative stitch along hood edge.
5. Fold the placket along the center, wrong side out, and overstitch upper/lower corners. Slash corners and turn the placket right side out. Press the placket. Sew zipper closure right part to placket.
6. Sew back relieve edges, then press them. Sew back middle edge, then press it. Sew shoulder edges, then press them apart. Tack the hood into neckline.
7. Sew front facing shoulder edges and facings. Lay ready placket to front part. Check whether details on right front part are correct: front part, placket and zipper. Sew the placket to front part. Lay front facing on front part and overstitch lower corner, edging, and neckline edge with one stitch. Slash corners, then turn them right side out and press; slash curve segments. Turn edgings right side out, press seams. Topstitch along edging and neckline at 0.2 cm (1/16") from edge.
8. Sew sleeve edges and press them apart. Press sleeve hems. Sew sleeves into armholes according to notches.
9. Sew lining sleeves into lining armholes, leaving a hole into sleeve right front seam. Press lining allowance. Sew lining to front facings inner edges and back neckline facing.
10. Mark garment he, and press it under. Overstitch sleeve hems and garment hem with lining. Fix lining to garment along waist seams. Turn the garment right side out through hole in sleeve seam. Stitch the sleeve hole.
11. Topstitch along garment hem and along sleeve hems.