Home / Women / Coats / #5074 Classic-Style Short Coat
Difficulty: ***
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
You will need: wool or wool-blend fabric, lining fabric, fusible interlining, 5 buttons 20 mm (3/4") in diametr, 6 buttons 15 mm (5-7/8") in diametr, shoulder pads.
Cutting:
Coat Fabric:
1. Pocket Flap - 2 pieces
2. Center Back - 2 pieces
3. Side Back - 2 pieces
4. Side Front - 2 pieces
5. Back Neck Facing - 1 piece
6. Pocket Welt - 4 pieces
7. Collar - 2 pieces
8. Center Front - 2 pieces
9. Front Facing - 2 pieces
10. Front Sleeve - 2 pieces
11. Back Sleeve - 2 pieces
Lining:
cut Front pieces with Front Facing area removed. Cut Sleeves hem with allowance of 1/2". Cut Back with Back Neck Facing area removed.12. Upper Pocket Lining - 2 pieces
13. Lower Pocket Lining - 2 pieces
14. Pocket Flap - 2 pieces
Fusible Interfacing: using very hot iron, reinforce with fusible interfacing wrong side of Front Facings, Back Neck Facing, lower Collar piece, Pocket Flaps of main fabric, and hem allowances of Back.
Instructions:
1. Sew center back seam from neck down to the mark of back vent. Turn under at the fold line and press the one-piece cut vent facing at the left Back piece; sew it to hem allowance. Topstitch center back seam and vent at the left Back piece.
Turn under and press the one-piece cut vent facing at the right Back, sew it to hem allowance. Match and pin two sides of back vent. Topstitch diagonally at left Back to fix the vent.
2. Sew vertical front seams of Fronts and Side Fronts, and vertical back seams of Back and Side Backs. Press seams open.
3. Assemble front pockets with 2 Welts and Flap as follows. Assemble Flaps: place one Flap of lining and main fabric face-to-face, stitch around 3 edges, turn and press. Topstitch. From the wrong side of Front, fuse a stripe of interfacing about 4 cm (about 1-5/8”) wide onto the pocket entrance area. Onto the face side of Front, place two Welts along the pocket entrance, raw edges meeting at pocket cut line, pin and sew. Cut the Front between the two seams, in corners cut diagonally. Be careful not to cut the welts! Turn the Welts inside the pocket cut to form a neat frame and baste. Welt folds must match at center of pocket entrance. Topstitch the seams of attaching Welts to Front. Turn small triangles inside; attach them to loose ends of Welts exactly from end of upper welt seam to the end of the lower welt seam. Place raw edge of Flap between into the pocket entrance, between the Welts, pin and topstitch right into topstitching seam of the upper Welt. At the wrong side, sew Upper Pocket Lining to Flap seam allowance. Sew Lower Pocket Lining to lower Welt seam allowance. Trim Pocket Linings to fit and sew them together.
4. Sew shoulder and side seams of the coat.
5. Sew lower Collar piece into coat neckline. Sew shoulder seams of Front Facings and Back Neck Facing. Sew upper Collar piece into neckline of Front Facings and Back Neck Facing. Press seams open, clip allowances where curved.
6. Place upper Collar along with Front Facings onto the coat face-to-face. Stitch along the front edge and outer collar edge. Turn out, press. Hand-stitch allowance of upper Collar to neckline to prevent Collar from rolling. Baste Front and Front Facing together along the front edge.
7. At hem, place Front Facing onto Front face-to-face, and sew. Turn Front Facings out, press at hem.
8. Fuse interfacing to hem allowance of sleeve.
Sew together Front and Back pieces of Sleeve. Press open seam allowances and turn the sleeve to the face side. Turn under and press hem allowance of sleeve.
9. Baste the sleeve head between notches and pull to gather sleeve head to match the armhole. Spray sleeve head with water and press gathers with hot iron. Pin sleeve to armhole and sew at the sleeve side.
10. Attach shoulder pads.
11. Sew together lining pieces. Sew lining to lower sleeve edges (at wrists), inside Front Facing edges and Back Neck Facing. Carefully pin lining to coat around the back vent. Cut off extra lining around the vent, but don’t forget to add 1/2" for seam allowances. Turn lining allowance inside and hand-stitch it around the vent. Hem the lining.
12. Make buttonholes into right Front and sew buttons to left Front.