Home / Men / Suits / #6051 Olive suit (pants)
Difficulty: **
You will need: natural or mixed fabric; lining; fusing; zipper, 1 button.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting :
Fabric:
1. Button catch - 1 folded detail
2. Front side part - 2 details
3. Waistband left part - 1 detail
4. Waistband right part - 1 detail
5. Back pocket flap - 4 details
6. Back valance - 2 details
7. Back pocket facing - 2 details
8. Belt loop - 1 detail
9. Front part - 2 details
10. Back part - 2 details
Lining:
1. Front pocket bag - 4 details
2. Back pocket lining - 2 details
3. Front part lining - 2 details
Fusing: waistband details, button catch, flaps, facings.
Instructions:
1.Apply the fusing to wrong side of waistband, button catch, flaps and facing.
2.Sew back and back darts and press them toward the center.
3. Make cut pockets into back parts: press 4 cm (1-5/8") stripe of interfacing on the back part wrong side pocket marking. Fold flap details in pairs, right sides together, and overstitch along three edges. Turn them right side out, serge and press. Topstitch the valance on lining. Press pocket facings along the center, right side over. Pin the facing along the pocket entrance on right side, with its bend contrary to marking, placing the flap under upper facing. Stitch on 1 cm (3/8") from the line. Cut the back part between stitched lines, bias to stitch ends. Be careful with facing and pocket bag when cutting! Press the seam allowances on the garment. Turn the facings into wrong side so that create a neat frame, then tack. From the right side, make a stitch strictly on the facing joining seam. Turn small triangles at slit ends into wrong side, then topstitch strictly on the facing from one stitch ends to another stitch ends. From the wrong side, sew pocket bag free end to facing joining seam allowances, then press pocket bag downward, make them equal and then stitch.
4.Place wrong side of side part on pocket bag right side, turn inner edge under and stitch along the edge. Sew the side and pocket bag along open edges. Stitch pocket bag on the garment right sides together along the pocket entrance. Turn it right side out, press and topstitch. Make pocket bags equal, and stitch edges. Sew pocket bags and garment waistband edge.
5.Sew front middle seam 3-4 cm (1-5/8") downward the closure. Press the one-piece facing into left part of pants under the wrong side along the center. Cut the facing from the right part of pants, leaving 1 cm allowance. Press this allowance into the wrong side and tack one side of zipper, with its teeth close to folding. Fold the button catch along the center, with its wrong sides together, then serge the lengthwise folding and the rounded one. Tack the ready edge, placing it under slit right side and the zipper. Topstitch the right side along the edge, joining the zipper and the button catch. Pin middle lines together. Pin zipper free braid to left side facing, then stitch; do not catch the front part. Then stitch the left part along the marking, catching facing and the zipper.
6.Sew inside leg seams. Serge allowances.
7.Fold belt loops along the center, tuck and topstitch them. Sew belt loops to garment upper edge: on front part - above pleats, on back part - by sides of darts, near side seams.
8.Sew belt details to upper edge of the garment, sewing the closure allowance to button catch. Fold the belt detail along the center, then stitch front short edges. Sew the slit in front middle seam, then, with the same stitch, the back middle seam up to the waist upper edge. Turn waistband inner edges under and topstitch along joining seams. Turn belt loops upward and sew them to waistband upper edge.
9.Turn hem allowances under, then sew with blind stitches above the seams.
10.Make a buttonhole into waistband right end, sew the button on left one.