Home / Men / Shirts / #6055 Shirt
Difficulty: *
You will need: poplin; fusing; 11 buttons.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting :
Fabric:
1. Collar - 2 folded details
2. Stand-up collar - 2 folded details
3. Back yoke - 1 folded detail
4. Back part - 1 folded detail
5. Bust pocket - 2 details
6. Pocket facing - 4 details
7. Front part - 2 details
8. Fly yoke - 2 details
9. Sleeve - 2 details
10. Sleeve slit facing - 2 details
11. Cuff - 2 details
Fusing: pocket facing, cuffs, stand-up collar, collar.
Instructions:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of collar lower detail and stand-up lower detail as well as cuffs and pocket facing.
2. Process slit pocket "in frame" into fly yokes. Apply fusing stripe of 4 cm (1-5/8") width to wrong side of place of cutting. Fold facings along the center right side out. Sew facings along marked lines to front parts, raw edges together, bends outside. Cut front part between stitches. Cut it diagonally to stitch ends (do not cut through facing). Make neat frame of facings. Turn small triangles at slit ends to wrong side and topstitch on facings strictly between upper stitch ands and lower stitch ends. Topstitch facings along joining seam. Serge edges of bust pocket lay it fly yoke wrong side and topstitch.
3. Sew back yoke to back part, press the seams towards the yoke and topstitch.
4. Press lower/middle edges of fly yoke to wrong side, fold under and topstitch. Tack fly yokes to front parts along shoulder edges and armholes.
5. Sew side/shoulder seams, press allowances backwards and topstitch.
6. Press one-piece front facing of front closure to wrong side, turn inner edge under and topstitch.
7. Stitch both collar details right sides together along outer contour. Turn right side out, press and topstitch. Lay one stand-up on another on right sides together, insert the collar between them (according to marks) and stitch; continue stitching on closure projection. Turn the collar right side out, press open edges of stand-ups in, insert neckline edge between them and stitch along the edge.
8. Make sleeve pleats. Cut sleeves according to marks, make diagonal notches neat slit end and sew the nearest to sleeve edge slit edge by hand. Lay sleeve slit facing right side on sleeve wrong side, stitch and turn stitch allowance out. Fold slit edges over with facing; fold facing open edges and topstitch on the garment. Sew sleeve seam and sew sleeves into armholes.
9. Sew cuff details right sides together along short edges, turn right side out and press. Sew cuffs to sleeve hems, turn inner edges under and topstitch along joining seam. Topstitch cuffs. Make buttonholes into cuffs and sew buttons.
10. Press garment hem to wrong side, fold it under and topstitch.
11. Make buttonholes into left front part and sew buttons to right one.