Home / Men / Shirts / #6025 Shirt
Difficulty: **
Recommended fabrics: lightweight cottons or cotton/polyester blends
You will need: White striped fabric for shell; about 55 cm of fusible interfacing 90 cm wide, 7 buttons 10 mm in diameter, 2 buttons 7 mm in diameter, 2 cuff links 10 mm in diameter.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Back - 1 piece
Front - 2 pieces
Sleeve - 2 pieces
Yoke - 2 pieces
Collar - 2 pieces
Sleeve Vent Facing - 2 pieces
Cuff - 4 pieces
Fusible interfacing: Collar and Cuffs.
Instructions:
1. Reinforce upper Collar with fusible interfacing. Reinforce outer Cuffs with two layers of interfacing.
2. Turn under front edge allowance to the wrong side twice: at dotted line and at solid line; press. Baste along the fold.
3. Fold pleats at Back as per pattern markings, press. Baste pleats at raw edge.
4. Line up Yokes face-to-face. Insert top edge of Back between them, matching the notches; stitch together along the edge. Turn out; press and topstitch the seam.
5. Sew Yoke to the Fronts. Line up Upper Yoke with corresponding Front face-to-face; stitch together along the edge. Turn out, press allowances towards Yoke. Turn under raw edge of Lower Yoke and baste it to the seam of Front/Yoke. Topstitch the seam of Front/Yoke, fastening Lower Yoke at the same time. Press. Repeat with another Front.
6. Sleeve Vent: pin Sleeve Vent Facing face side to the wrong side of Sleeve, along two sides of vent (mark the vent as per pattern). Cut Sleeve Vent between the seams. Turn under raw edge of Facing twice. Stitch Facing to Sleeve.
7. Sew Sleeve into open armhole, matching the notches. Press seam allowances towards armhole (not sleeve). Trim off seam allowances of armhole ONLY down to 0.5 cm. Fold Sleeve allowances around armhole allowances, baste together to the armhole. Topstitch at the armhole, fastening allowances at the same time.
8. Sew side and under-sleeve seams at one go, taking the pieces face-to-face. Press allowances towards Back. Trim off half of the allowance of Back and back area of Sleeve. Fold a wider allowance around a smaller one, baste to Back and Sleeve. Make a double-topstitching along side and under-sleeve seams, fastening allowances at the same time.
9. Assemble Collar.
Reinforce one piece of Collar with fusible interfacing.
Line up pieces of Collar face-to-face and stitch together at outer sides. Turn out to the face side, press. Topstitch finished edges of Collar.
Baste and stitch non-reinforced half of Collar to the neckline, face-to-face, matching the notches with shoulder seams. Turn under and press neckline allowance of reinforced half of Collar; baste it to neckline. Stitch in the ditch of neckline seam to attach reinforced Collar. Topstitch neckline seam at 0.7 cm.
10. Fold pleats at bottom of Sleeve as per pattern markings. Press to the side as directed in pattern. Baste together raw edges at bottom of Sleeve.
11. Sew Cuff to bottom of Sleeve. Line up reinforced Cuff with non-reinforced Cuff face-to-face. Stitch together at three outer edges. Clip allowances in corners. Turn out to the face side; press. Apply reinforced side of Cuff to the bottom edge of Sleeve, face-to-face, and stitch together. Turn down the Cuff; press seam allowances inside the Cuff. Turn under and press allowance of inside (non-reinforced) Cuff; baste to previous seam. Stitch in the ditch of Cuff seam to attach inside Cuff. Topstitch the Cuff all around at 0.7 cm. Topstitch the seam of attaching Cuff to Sleeve with additional decorative seam 1.5 cm wide.
12. Turn under bottom hem allowance of shirt, press. Turn under raw edge of hemming, press and topstitch along bottom hem.
13. Mark buttonholes at the left Front and Cuffs as per pattern. Work buttonholes into the shirt. Sew buttons to the right Front.
14. Fold Cuffs in half and insert cuff links.