Home / Men / Raincoats / #6053 Raincoat
Difficulty: ***
Recommended fabrics: water-, wind-resistant fabrics typical for raincoats.
You will need: Water-resistant fabric; lining fabric; fusible interfacing; shoulder pads; 4 buttons.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Shell:
2. Pocket Welt – 2 pieces
3. Back Yoke - 1 piece
4. Back - 2 pieces
5. Front Yoke - 2 pieces
6. Side Front - 2 pieces
7. Center Front - 2 pieces
8. Front Facing - 2 pieces
9. Collar - 2 pieces
10. Collar Stand - 2 pieces
11. Back Sleeve Strap - 2 pieces
12. Front Sleeve Strap - 2 pieces
13. Front Sleeve - 2 pieces
14. Back Sleeve - 2 pieces
15. Sleeve Loops - 1 piece
Lining:
1. Pocket Bag - 4 pieces
13. Front Sleeve - 2 pieces
14. Back Sleeve - 2 pieces
16. Back Lining – 2 pieces
17. Front Lining – 2 pieces
Fusible interfacing: Center Front parts, allowance of back vent, half-width of each Welt, Front Yokes, Front Facings, Sleeve Straps, Collar, Collar Stand.
Instructions:
1. Reinforce with fusible interfacing: Center Front Parts, Back vent allowance, half-width of each Welt, Front Yokes, Front Facings, Sleeve Straps, Collar, Collar Stand. (Interfacing is fused to the wrong side of fabric with hot iron.)
2. Fold each Pocket Welt in half, face side inside, and sew at two short sides. Turn and press. Topstitch 3 sides (except for raw edge) of Pocket Welt 1 cm (3/8”) from the edge. Match raw edge of Welt with vertical edge of Center Front part, placing Welt onto Front between the notches. On top of Welt, place lower Pocket bag. Sew Pocket Welt and Pocket Bag to the Center Front part. Sew upper Pocket Bag to Side Front in the same manner.
Sew together Center Front and Side Front pieces. Do not sew along the Pocket. Turn Pocket Bags inside, align and trim bags to fit each other. Stitch Pocket bags together. Topstitch Welt onto Front at short sides, right onto the seam of Welt topstitching.
3. Sew Front Yokes to the lower parts of Front. Press allowances to the yokes and topstitch.
4. Sew center back seam up to the back vent. Press allowances to the left back and topstitch. Turn left back’s allowance of back vent to the face side, stitch down at the bottom hem, turn out and press. Topstitch left side of back vent. urn bottom hem allowance of right back to the face side, stitch at the edge of vent allowance, turn out and press. Pin right part of vent under left one, topstitch with a slanted seam.
5. Sew Back yoke, press seam allowances towards yoke and topstitch. Sew side and shoulder seams.
6. Sew Collar Stand pieces to the Upper and Lower collars. Press seams open. Topstitch at both sides of each seam. Sew Lower collar with stand into neckline of raincoat (shell).
7. Fold each Sleeve Strap piece in half lengthwise, face sides inside, and sew at one long and one short side. Turn out, baste, press.
8. Sew upper seam of each sleeve. Press allowances to the Front Sleeve, topstitch. Sew lower seam of each sleeve, inserting Sleeve Straps according to pattern. Fold Sleeve Loops part in half lengthwise, face side inside, sew along the raw edges (at the long side), turn out, press and topstitch. Cut the strap into 8 pieces. Fold down raw edges of loops, baste and stitch to the sleeves in places marked in pattern. Sew sleeves into armholes, matching the notches. Hand-sew shoulder pads. Turn under and press bottom hem allowance of each sleeve, hand-sew.
9. Attach Front Facings to the lining of Fronts. Assemble all lining pieces. Sew upper collar into neckline of lining. Place shell and lining face-to-face. Baste and sew around at one go: 3 cm (1-3/16”) of bottom edges of Front Facings, center front edges, and collar. Clip in corners and curves, turn out and press. Topstitch center front edges and collar. At the wrong side, hand-sew together allowances of upper and lower collars.
10. Turn under and press hem allowance of the raincoat, stitch the bottom hem. Cut lining exactly above the back vent, cut slanted at the vent top. Turn under raw edges of lining around the cut, hand-sew to allowances of vent. Turn under sleeve lining’s bottom allowance, hand-sew to the bottom allowance of sleeve shell.
11. Make buttonholes at sleeve straps, left front, as well as a buttonhole at the right lapel according to pattern. Sew buttons.