Home / Men / Pants / #6058 Trousers
Difficulty: **
You will need: gabardine; lining; fusing; zipper; 1 button.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Fabric:
1. Front pocket facing - 2 details
2. Front valance - 2 details
3. Back valance - 2 details
4. Back pocket facing - 2 details
5. Belt loops - 5 details
6. Button catch - 1 detail
7. Fly front - 1 detail
8. Front part - 2 details
9. Back part - 2 details
10. Waistband left part - 1 detail
11. Waistband right part - 1 detail
Lining:
1. Front pocket bag - 2 details
2. Back pocket bag - 2 details
Fusing: waistband details, button catch, fly front.
Instructions:
Apply the fusing to wrong side of waistband, button catch and fly front.
Sew back darts and press them toward the center. Make pleats into front parts toward the center, then tack them to upper edge.
Make cut pockets into back parts: press 4 cm (1-5/8") stripe of interfacing on the back part wrong side pocket marking. Topstitch the valance on the lining. Press pocket facings along the center, right side over. Pin the facing along the pocket entrance, from down (the folding from the marked line), then pin the pocket bag, from upper, coinciding the edge and the marking. Stitch on 1 cm (3/8") from the line. Cut the back part between stitched lines, cutting stitch ends diagonally. Be careful with facing and pocket bag when cutting! Press the seam allowances on the garment. Turn the facings into wrong side so that create a neat frame, then tack. From the right side, make a stitch strictly on the facing joining seam. Turn small triangles at hole ends into wrong side, then topstitch strictly on the facing from one stitch ends to another stitch ends. From the wrong side, sew pocket pocket bag free end to facing joining seam allowances, then press pocket bag downward, make them equal, then stitch.
Make slip pockets into back part in the same way as into front ones.
Sew front middle seam 3-4 cm (1-5/8") downward the closure. Stitch the button catch to garment left part, press it to wrong side and then topstitch. Press right edge allowance to wrong side and tack zipper braid, with its teeth closely to the bend. Fold the button catch along the center, with its wrong sides together and then serge the lengthwise folding and the rounded one. Tack the ready edge, placing it under slit right side and the zipper. Topstitch the right side along the edge, joining the zipper and the button catch. Pin free middle lines together. Pin zipper ready braid to left side facing, then stitch; do not catch the front part. Then stitch the left part along the marking, catching facing and the zipper.
Sew inside leg seams. Serge allowances.
Fold belt loops along the center, tuck and topstitch them. Sew belt loops to garment upper edge: on front part - above pleats, on back part - by sides of darts, near side seams.
Sew belt details to upper edge of the garment, sewing the closure allowance to button catch. Fold the belt detail along the center, then stitch front short edges. Sew the slit in front middle seam, then, with the same stitch, the back middle seam up to the waist upper edge. Turn waistband inner edges under and topstitch along joining seams. Turn belt loops upward and sew them to waistband upper edge. Turn the fifth belt loop under and sew it on back middle seam.
Turn hem allowances under, then sew with blind stitches.
Make a buttonhole into waistband left end, sew the button on right one.