Home / Men / Pants / #6039 Pleated pants
Difficulty: **
You will need: cotton (denim) or mixed fabric, linen; fusing, zipper of the same color; 3 buttons.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Fabric:
1. Back pocket valance - 2 details
2. Back pocket facing - 2 details
3. Belt loop detail - 1 detail
4. Button catch - 1 detail
5. Front part - 2 details
6. Back part - 2 details
7. Waistband left part - 1 detail
8. Waistband right part - 1 detail
Lining:
1. Back pocket lining - 2 details
2. Front pocket pocket bag - 4 details
Fusing: waistband derail, button catch.
Instructions:
Apply the fusing to wrong side of waistband and button catch.
Sew darts and press them to center. Make pleats into front parts (directing them to darts) and sew them at 2-3 cm (6/8" - 1-3/16") from the upper part.
Make cut pockets into back parts: press 4 cm (1-5/8") stripe of interfacing on the back part wrong side pocket marking. Press pocket facings along the center, right side over. Pin the facing along the pocket entrance, from down (the folding from the marked line), then pin the pocket bag, from upper, coinciding the edge and the marking. Stitch on 1 cm (3/8") from the line. Cut the back part between stitched lines, bias to stitch ends. Be careful with facing and pocket bag when cutting! Press the seam allowances on the garment. Turn the facings into wrong side so that create a neat frame, then tack. From the right side, make a stitch strictly on the facing joining seam. Turn small triangles at slit ends into wrong side, then topstitch strictly on the facing from one stitch ends to another stitch ends. From the wrong side, sew pocket pocket bag free end to facing joining seam allowances, then press pocket bag downward, make them equal, then stitch.
Sew front middle seam 3-4 cm downward the closure. Press the one-piece facing to left part of pants under the wrong side along the center. Cut the facing from the right part of pants, leaving 1 cm allowance. Press this allowance to the wrong side and tuck one side of zipper, with its teeth close to folding. Fold the button catch along the center, with its wrong sides together, then tuck the lengthwise folding and the rounded one over. Tuck the ready edge, placing it under slit right side and the zipper. Topstitch the right side along the edge, joining the zipper and the button catch. Pin free middle lines together. Pin zipper ready braid to left side facing, then stitch; do not catch the front part. Then stitch the left part along the marking, catching facing and the zipper.
Sew side seams without stitching pocket entrance. Place front pockets pocket bag from inside on the pocket entrances allowance right sides together, then topstitch strictly along side seams marked lines. Press pocket bags toward front parts and sew them.
Sew inside leg seams. Serge allowances.
Fold belt loops along the center, tuck and topstitch them. Sew belt loops to garment upper edge: on front part - above pleats, on back part - by sides of darts, near side seams.
Sew belt details to upper edge of the garment, sewing the closure allowance to button catch. Fold the belt detail along the center, then stitch front short edges. Sew the slit in front middle seam, then, with the same stitch, the back middle seam up to the waist upper edge. Turn waistband inner edges under and topstitch along joining seams. Turn belt loops upward and sew them to waistband upper edge. Turn the fifth belt loop under and sew it on back middle seam.
Turn hem allowances under, then topstitch them along the edges.
Make a buttonhole into waistband right end, sew the button on left one.