Home / Men / Jackets / #6101 Windbreaker jacket with double sleeves
Difficulty: **
You will need: jersey or fleece; fusing.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Fabric:
1. Front part - 1 piece
2. Lower front part - 1 piece
3. Back part - 1 piece
4. Lower back part - 1 piece
5. Upper sleeve - 2 pieces
6. Lower sleeve - 2 pieces
7. Collar - 1 piece
8. Off-set welt - 2 pieces
9. Large pocket bag - 2 pieces
10. Small pocket bag - 2 pieces
Advice: to prevent seam from stiffing, sew details with special (zig zag) stitch. To prevent hem from stiffing serge it with overlock and then stitch using double needle. Do the same for all edges which must stay elastic. The above is not for industrial manufacturing.
Instructions:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of the welt, press the welt along the center. Lay the reinforcement stripe under pocket place. Mark a line on the welt determining ready welt's width. Topstitch small pocket bag on welt's inner side. Lay the welt with pocket bag on right side of front part coinciding pocket marking and the line on the welt. Welt's outer side must coincide with front part's right side. Stitch the welt. Stitch large pocket bag to pocket's upper marking. Cut pocket entrance between marking lines making diagonal slashes towards corners of pocket marking. Turn pocket details wrong side out. Press seam allowances. Stitch pocket bags' edges fixing pocket's corners.
2. Stitch lower parts to front/back parts. Topstitch joining seams. Stitch shoulder edges together. Stitch upper sleeves into open armholes. Topstitch seams joining sleeves along armholes. Stitch side seams and sleeve seams leaving slit segments unstitched.
3. Stitch lower sleeves. Press upper sleeves' allowances under. Stitch lower sleeve to allowance's edge. Topstitch at 3 cm (1-3/16") from upper sleeve's lower allowance.
4. Stitch the collar into ring, then fold it along the center. Stitch the collar into neckline stretching collars edge and placing the seam joining the collar close to left shoulder edge. Topstitch the seam joining the collar with stretchable stitch.
5. Press garment/sleeves hems. Topstitch garment hem, slits and sleeves hems.
6. Press ready smock.