Home / Men / Jackets / #6105 Warm jacket
Difficulty: ***
You will need: whipcord; lining; warmer; fusing; 1 separable zipper (depending on front length including stand-up collar's height); elastic braids of 4.5 cm (1-6/8") cuffs; Velcro.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Fabric:
1. Center front part - 2 pieces
2. Center back part - 1 piece
3. Back yoke - 1 piece
4. Front yoke - 2 pieces
5. Front placket - 4 pieces
6. Side front part - 2 pieces
7. Side back part - 2 pieces
8. Sleeve center part - 2 pieces
9. Slower sleeve - 4 pieces
10. Outer collar - 1 piece
11. Inner collar - 1 piece
12. Outer collar's placket - 1 piece
13. Cuff - 2 piece
14. Cuff's placket - 2 pieces
15. Sleeve half-belt - 2 pieces
16. Windproof placket - 2 pieces
17. Front facing - 2 pieces
18. Back facing - 1 piece
19. Inside pocket's off-set welt - 1 piece
Lining:
1. Front part - 2 pieces
2. Back part - 1 piece
3. Sleeve - 2 pieces
4. Inside pocket's small pocket - 1 piece
5. Inside pocket's large pocket bag - 1 piece
6. Lower pocket's pocket bag - 4 pieces
Warmer: Topstitch the warmer along contour of back/front parts, closure/outer collar placket (topstitch outer collar after collar's placket is stitched).
Instructions:
1. Overstitch front placket along one side. Turn it right side out, press and topstitch. Stitch pocket bags to side front part. Lay front placket on center front part, right sides together, then lay the pocket bag on pocket entrance and topstitch with one stitch. Stitch side front parts to center front parts inserting front placket and stitching pocket pocket bags together. Topstitch the seam. Make fixes at pocket entrance.
2. Stitch side parts to back part inserting trimming. Topstitch joining seams. Stitch yokes to back/front parts, then topstitch. Stitch lower sleeves to center ones, then topstitch. Stitch shoulder edges. Topstitch shoulder seam at back part. Stitch sleeves into open armholes. Topstitch seams joining sleeves along armholes. Stitch side seams with sleeve seams. Stitch outer collar into neckline.
3. Apply the fusing to wrong side of off-set welt, press it along the center. Mark a line determining ready welt's width on the welt. Topstitch small pocket bag on welt's inner side. Lay the welt with pocket bag on right side of front part coinciding pocket marking lining and line on welt. Welt's outer side must coincide with right side of side front part. Stitch the welt. Stitch large pocket to pocket's upper marking. Cut pocket entrance between marking lines diagonally towards pocket marking's corners. Pocket's another edge enters the seam joining front facing. Turn pocket details wrong side out. Press seam allowances. Stitch pocket bags' edges fixing pocket's corner at one side.
4. Stitch front facing to jacket lining. Stitch lining details together. Stitch inner collar into lining neckline.
5. Set elastic braid into cuffs and topstitches. Apply fusing to wrong side of sleeve half-belt and cuff placket. Topstitch Velcro pieces on half-belt and on cuff placket according to marking. Overstitch sleeve half-belt. Overstitch cuffs with cuff plackets inserting half-belts into seams. Stitch cuffs to sleeves catching elastic braid's edge with seams.
6. Lay one part of zipper on edging right sides together (directing teeth from edging). Overstitch edgings and collar edges with lining inserting the zipper. Turn the garment right side out.
7. Stitch the lining to cuffs.
8. Press the hem first at 1 cm, then 3.5 cm (1-3/8") under. Topstitch the hem.
9. Topstitch edgings and the collar.
10. Topstitch Velcro on windproof placket's wrong side. Overstitch windproof placket, turn it right side out, press and topstitch along the contour. Topstitch it on left front part according marks. Topstitch Velcro on right front part.
11. Press ready jacket.