Home / Men / Jackets / #6046 Leather jacket
Difficulty: ***
You will need: natural/artificial leather/suede, lining, fusing, 4 buttons.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Fabric:
1. Back yoke – 1 folded piece
2. Back part – 2 pieces
3. Collar – 2 folded pieces
4. Stand-up collar – 2 folded pieces
5. Back neckline facing – 1 folded piece
6. Front yoke – 2 pieces
7. Side front part – 2 pieces
8. Middle front part – 2 pieces
9. Front facing – 2 pieces
10. Off-set welt – 2 pieces
11. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
12. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
13. Cuff – 4 pieces
Lining:
1. Pocket bag – 4 pieces
2. Back part – 1 folded piece
3. Front part – 2 pieces
4. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
5. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusing: front facing, off-set welt, collar, stand-up collar, cuff.
Instructions:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front facing, off-set welt, collar, stand-up collar, cuff.
2. Stitch middle back seam. Press the seam leftwards and topstitch. Stitch back yoke to back part. Press the seam towards the yoke and topstitch it.
3. Overstitch off-set welt along short edges, turn them right side out and press folds. Topstitch along welt’s edges. Coincide welt’s open edges to edge of center front part’s relieve: lay the welt on center front part’s right side coinciding welt’s upper edge with notch. Lay pocket bag’s upper part on the welt, tack them together. Lay pocket bag’s lower part on side front part’s right side. Stitch off-set welt and pocket bags. Stitch front relieve seams. Fold pocket bags in, adjust them and stitch together. Topstitch welts’ short edges on front part along decorative stitch.
4. Stitch front yoke to front part. Press the seam towards the yoke and topstitch it. Stitch shoulder seams.
5. Stitch stand-ups to collars, make top-stitched seams. Stitch neckline facing to front facings. Stitch inner collar into garment’s neckline. Stitch outer collar into neckline of facing and front facings. Lay outer collar joined with front facings on the garment, right sides together, and overstitch front facings and collar, then turn them right side out and press. Fix collars’ edges together.
6. Stitch sleeve seams. Make top-stitched seams along elbow seam. Stitch short edges of cuffs. Fold cuff details right sides together, stitch lower edges, turn the cuff right side out and press it. Lay cuffs on sleeves right sides together and stitch outer cuffs to sleeves. Topstitch cuffs along perimeters.
7. Stitch sleeves into armholes.
8. Stitch lining pieces, excepting a segment of about 20 cm (8") length into elbow seam of one of sleeves. Insert the lining into the garment wrong sides together coinciding them along middle back lines and shoulder seams. Overstitch the garment with lining along front facings and neckline. Stitch the lining to garment hem and sleeve hem. Turn the garment right side out through unstitch segment of sleeve, then stitch segment’s edges together.
9. Make buttonholes into left front part, sew buttons on right one.